Proceedings of the 19th World Textile Conference - Autex 2019

3A1_0569_ CONTRIBUTION OF INFILL MATERIALS TO THE FIRE BEHAVIOR OF ARTIFICIAL GRASS

Mathilde Casetta — 2019-07-02

Artificial grass is mainly composed of organic polymers with a consequent potential fire hazard. However, the behavior of artificial grass in case of fire has been poorly studied and is thus misunderstood. The purpose of this study is thus to have a better understanding of the contribution of the different components of the artificial turf in the fire performances. In this work, the influence of the nature of the infill is more specifically investigated.

3A2_0542_ RADIOGRAFTING OF PHOSPHORUS FLAME RETARDANTS ON FLAX FABRICS: COMPETITION BETWEEN HOMOPOLYMERIZATION AND GRAFTING

R. Hajj — 2019-08-13

Many natural fibers have been used for a long time in textile industry as cotton and flax [1]. Moreover, naturalfibers are getting more importance in composites industry as a substitute for glass, carbon, or aramid fibers [2,3]. However, they must be modified to overcome some disadvantages such as flammability [4]. In previous studies [4, 5], phosphorus flame retardants (FR) were grafted on flax fabrics by e-beam radiation. In the present study, the reactivity of the double bond C=C of the P-monomers under e-beam radiation was investigated to control the grafting yield of various FR. Two phenomena are competitive during radiation step. The P-monomerscan be grafted directly on the flax components or can homopolymerize inside the fibers. Phosphorus content reached 1.4 wt% using vinyl phosphonic acid. Grafting efficiency was assessed by X-ray fluorescence, Energy Dispersive X-Ray Analysis (EDX) / Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and 1H nuclear magnetic resonance analysis. Fire behavior of the modified fabrics was studied using thermogravimetric analysis, pyrolysis combustion flow calorimetry and a preliminary fire test. Self-extinguishing and non-flammable fabrics were obtained for phosphorus content of 0.5 wt% and 1.2 wt% respectively.

3A3_0108_ WET SPUN COMPOSITE FIBRES WITH ENHANCED THERMAL AND MOISTURE PROPERTIES BY INCORPORATING WASTE ALPACA POWDER

Md Abdullah Al Faruque — 2019-08-13

We have investigated a sustainable approach to enhance both the thermal and moisture properties of the wet-spun polyacrylonitrile by using green natural alpaca fibre. The waste alpaca fibres were mechanically milled into powders and mixed with various weight ratios of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) polymer in dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO). The Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and the Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) revealed improved thermal stability of the composite alpaca/PAN fibres than the control PAN. Moreover, owing to the addition of alpaca the moisture properties of the composite fibres were increased substantially.

3A4_0113_ NOVEL HALOGEN FREE FLAME RETARDANTS FOR TEXTILE FINISHING

Thomas Mayer-Gall — 2019-08-13

3B1_0149_ A NOVEL NITROGEN-CONTAINING CARBOXYLFUNCTIONALIZED ORGANOPHOSPHORUS SYSTEM FOR FLAME RETARDANT FINISHING OF COTTON FABRICS

Angela Castellano — 2019-08-13

In this paper, a novel nitrogen-containing carboxyl-functionalized organophosphorus compound was exploited for enhancing the flame retardant properties of cotton fabrics. In particular, 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid and sodium hypophosphite were used as environmentally-friendly binder and catalyst, respectively. Besides, to avoid the formation of insoluble calcium salt during home laundering, the treated samples were recoated employing three sol-gel solutions. Treated and untreated samples were thoroughly characterized to understand the bonding between coatings and substrate, as well as their thermal and fire behaviour. The results obtained from flame and combustion tests revealed that the treated fabrics were able to control the combustion process.

3B2_0056_ FLAME RETARDANCY: STILL A HOT TOPIC

Ine De Vilder — 2019-08-13

3B3_0618_ FLAME RETARDANT TEXTILE FINISHING CHEMICALS: IN VITRO ASSESSMENT OF DERMAL ABSORPTION

Meritxell Martí — 2019-08-13

Flame Retardants (FR) are a group of anthropogenic environmental contaminants used in textile finishings. Currently, the largest marked group of FRs is brominated FR considered toxic, persistent and bioaccumulative. Non-halogenated alternatives are a possible solution, but there is a lack of knowledge concerning environmental impact and health risks.

The aim is focused on dermal absorption of FR. Until now, no studies were found about the textile release of FR to the skin in contact with them. The evidence that dermal absorption could be potentially significant pathway of human exposure to FRs, supports the interest in the study.

P044_0619_ Thermal analysis (DSC,TGA) of textile flame retardants with lower environmental impact

Albert M. Manich — 2019-09-05

Plenary session

Geert De Clercq — 2019-07-02

AUTEX 2019 Conference Programme

Geert De Clercq — 2019-07-02

2A1_0660_ NANOFIBERS FOR DAMAGE RESISTANT COMPOSITE MATERIALS

Lode Daelemans — 2019-07-10

Fiber reinforced polymer composites are the go-to material for designing applications that require a high strength and stiffness at minimal weight such as aerospace structures, wind turbines or ultralight vehicles. However, delamination between the reinforcing plies remains a major occurring failure type. Interleaving electrospun nanofibres between the reinforcing plies has proven to be a viable interlaminar toughening method which significantly limits the occurrence of delamination failure in composites. This contributions gives an overview into the relationship between the electrospun nanofibre properties and the resulting toughened composites.

2A3_0331_ THE INFLUENCE OF USING AGRICULTURE WASTES AS REINFORCING FILLERS ON HYBRID BIOCOMPOSITES PROPERTIES

Aly M. Nermin — 2019-07-10

Recently, there is a growing interest towards using natural lignocellulosic fibers in reinforcing composites to comply with the global requirements for producing more eco-friendly products. These fibers are offering several desirable properties like renewability, low density, adequate strength, thermal insulation and recyclability. Natural fibers and fillers have proven their success in reinforcement of polymer matrix composites to produce a cost-effective substitute to wood and plastic based products for various industrial applications. Natural fillers can be obtained from several resources such as agricultural wastes which are a good renewable source for lignocellulosic fibers such as date palm leaves, bagasse, rice husk, banana, wood fibers, etc. Their widely usage as fillers in polymeric matrices is owing to their availability, ease of processing and low costs, in addition to improving the mechanical behavior of the produced composites. In this study, hybrid woven sandwich
biocomposites samples were fabricated from polyester and flax yarns, using polyester resin as matrix. Agriculture wastes such as date palm leaves and wood flour were used as reinforcing fillers. Chemical modification of lignocellulosic materials was applied to enhance the compatibility between the reinforced materials and the matrix. The hybrid sandwich biocomposites were prepared using grinded date palm leaves and wood flour as filler materials at various weight loading (10, 20 and 30 wt.%). The influence of the fillers content on the performance of the produced biocomposites was examined. Mechanical properties were evaluated throughout impact and flexural tests in both the warp and weft directions of the fabricated biocomposites samples. Nevertheless, physical properties such as water absorption were evaluated to assess their performance. Biocomposites sample's densities were determined for further comparison. Results revealed that, using
agriculture waste as fillers have improved the properties of the fabricated hybrid sandwich biocomposites, in which increased the potential of such biocomposites to be used in low cost sustainable structural applications.

2B1_0040_ FORMABILITY OF THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL TUFTED COMPOSITE REINFORCEMENTS

Hao Shen — 2019-07-10

Three-dimensional (3D) fabrics as one type of multilayered reinforcement become more and more popular, due to its better performance in thickness direction of part. Recently, tufting technique is developed and applied to manufacture the 3D textile composite reinforcements. The present study investigates the influence of tufting density and tufting pattern on the formability behaviours and forming defects. High tufting density can reduce the size of wrinkles significantly. The tufting pattern influences slightly on the wrinkling phenomenon. However, square spiral pattern can eliminate buckles of tufting yarns at four corners, especially in the deep-draw forming.

2B3_0097_ TENSILE PROPERTIES CHARACTERIZATION OF DRY HIGH-MOLECULAR-WEIGHT POLYETHYLENE 3D WARP INTERLOCK FABRICS FOR COMPOSITE REINFORCEMENTS

Mengru Li — 2019-07-10

In the present work, five 3D warp interlock fabrics (3DWIFs) with stuffer warp yarns were made from 135Tex linear density Spectra® 900, high-molecular-weight polyethylene (HMWPE) yarns, with the same warp density (10 ends/cm) and weft density (40 picks/cm) and manufactured on the same dobby loom. After production, several mechanical and physical measurements are done and especially tensile tests to understand their final behaviour with respect to process and product parameters. The effects of fabric density and yarn density on tensile properties of the fabrics, in the warp and weft directions respectively, have been investigated. Besides, other influent factors as yarn crimps are also discussed in this paper.

2B4_0258_ THE EMBEDDED POLYMERIC OPTICAL FIBER (POF) IN 3D COMPOSITE FOR HEALTH MONITORING

Tamer Hamouda — 2019-07-10

Since most of structure deals directly with people, there is a strong need for a reliable structural health monitoring system (SHM) that can detect and locate the internal and unseen damages. In this research, 3D composite samples with embedded POFs with different parameters were fabricated. OTDR was connected to the embedded POF to measure the signal attenuation. POF Signal were collected during the preform manufacturing process, VARTM process, after curing and under different bending loads and repeated impact tests. Results showed good response of embedded POF sensor under different loading loads and under repeated impacts.

3A1_0060_ USE OF HONEYCOMB SPACER FABRIC AS GROUNDED VERTICAL AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION STRUCTURE

Basak Ozkendirci — 2019-07-10

The honeycomb fabric is designed to provide an alternative to soilless vertical farming practices. Also, the fabric can be improved as a fabric that provides increases the agricultural land, and reduces water consumption and use of pesticides. In the research, the experiments at the greenhouse environment by the prototype fabric are shared. Research findings show that it is necessary to make new prototypes using variables such as raw material, density, and color difference. As a result, a production project has been developed to observe the interaction of vertical cultivated plants with different qualities of fabrics in the greenhouse environment.

3A2_0109_ NEAR-MICROSCALE MODELLING OF DRY WOVEN FABRICS UNDER IN-PLANE SHEAR LOADING

Tien Dung Dinh — 2019-07-10

This article proposes a near micro-scale modelling technique to predict nonlinear shear behaviour of dry woven fabrics in a picture frame test using the digital element method. In the proposed model, the fabric yarns are modelled as bundles of virtual fibres that are then modelled by the truss elements in finite element code. Additionally, our finite element analysis was performed in a repeated unit cell and the contact friction among the fibres is explicitly considered. Especially, we proposed so-called enhanced periodic boundary conditions to capture the mechanical behaviour of fabrics both in the small and large shear angle regimes.

3A4_0720_ ANALYSES OF THE DRAPABILITY OF BIAXIAL REINFORCED WEFT-KNITTED FABRICS BY MEANS OF FEM MESO-SCALE MODELS

Minh Quang Pham — 2019-07-10

The bending and shearing properties have a major influence on the drapability of 2D fabrics while forming 3D preforms for composites. The bending and shearing behaviour are dependent on the yarn bending stiffness, the interaction between the yarn systems, and the density of the yarn systems in the textile structure. Weft-knitted fabrics are known for their excellent drapability due to their internal structure. Meso-scale models of two biaxial reinforced weft-knitted fabrics with different configurations of the yarn systems are used to predict the forming behaviour of the fabrics. Results show an excellent agreement of the simulations compared to experimental trials, thus, making the model a valid tool for further analyses of the preforms.

3B1_0446_ INFLUENCE OF THE NUMBER OF LAYER ON MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF 3D WARP INTERLOCK FABRIC MADE WITH FLAX ROVING

Henri Lansiaux — 2019-07-10

From 1000 Tex flax rovings, five 3D warp interlock structures, based on a plain weave diagram, were woven on a prototype weaving machine developed at GEMTEX laboratory. The aim of this study is to compare these 3D warp interlock fabrics with different number of layers (3, 5, 7, 11 and 23). Results show that thicknesses, areal densities, weft densities, binding warp crimp and maximum tensile load in weft direction are related to the number of layers.

3B2_0462_ PROCESS CHAIN DEVELOPMENT FOR 3D NET SHAPE WOVEN FABRICS

Philipp Shegner — 2019-07-10

A central challenge of the Anthropozoic era is the intelligent and efficient use of available material and energy resources. This leads to a steadily growing demand for lightweight solutions based on innovative materials with a broad spectrum of properties and sustainable production technologies. Textile-based structures in general and 3D woven structures in particular offer outstanding possibilities for the realization of fiber-reinforced lightweight structures. In addition, 3D woven structures have an enormous potential for complex medical devices individually adapted to patients. A current challenge, however, is the great effort involved in transferring 3D CAD models into the final 3D component. In order to avoid complex manual process steps, the efficient implementation of a flexible digital process chain is necessary. The aim of the presented work is the development of a continuous process chain for the fully automated production of new complex 3D woven fabric preforms, where the control files for the weaving machine are derived directly from the CAD model via defined intermediate steps.

2A2_0048_ HIGH STRENGTH HYDROGEL COMPOSITE PREPARED FROM POLYVINYL ALCOHOL/COTTON WOVEN FABRIC

U. Koc — 2019-08-13

2B2_0444_ 3D WOVEN CELLULAR STRUCTURES AS CONTINUOUS REINFORCEMENT IN CEMENT-BASED COMPOSITES SUBJECTED TO IMPACT LOADING

M.P.D. Vo — 2019-08-13

3A3_0256_ SPECIFIC PROPERTIES OF 3D WARP INTERLOCK CARBON FABRICS FOR COMPOSITE MATERIAL

Mehmet Korkmaz — 2019-08-13

3B3_0533_ ROBOT BASED TECHNOLOGY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF NOVEL RESOURCE-SAVING AND COST-EFFICIENT TEXTILE REINFORCEMENTS FOR DIRECT FURTHER PROCESSING INTO PREFABRICATED PARTS

Martin Von Zuben — 2019-08-13

P001_0719_ The clothing comfort properties of linen fabrics at different moisture levels

Priscilla Reiners — 2019-09-03

P002_0133_ Characterization of the surface geometry of seersucker woven fabrics

Małgorzata Matusiak — 2019-09-03

The seersucker woven fabrics are characterized by a unique structure and properties resulting from the structure. In the seersucker fabrics the puckered and flat strips occur in turns according to the repeat of the seersucker effect. The structure of the seersucker woven fabrics influences their mechanical, utility and comfort-related properties. The aim of presented work was to analyse the surface topography of the seersucker woven fabrics of different structure. Measurement of the parameters characterizing the surface geometry of the fabrics was performed by means of the MicroSpy® Profile by the FRT the art of metrology ™. On the basis of the results from the profilometer the parameters characterizing the surface topography of the investigated seersucker woven fabrics were analysed. It was stated that the repeat of the seersucker pattern influences the surface parameters of the investigated seersucker woven fabrics.

P003_0516_ Analysis of possible braid configurations on a 4x4 horn gear braiding machine

Yordan Kyosev — 2019-09-03

The braiding machines with 4x4 set of horn gears and computer controlled switches can be arranged for production of braided structures with different cross sections. The objective of this work is to analyse the possible basic configurations on such machine. These basic configurations can be used in the future as main building elements for more complex structures with bifurcations. The analysis is performed using numerical simulation of the braiding process with the software TexMind Braiding Machine Configurator.

3B4_0157_ BIO-MATERIAL POLYLACTIC ACID/POLY(BUTYLENE ADIPATE-CO-TEREPHTHALATE) BLEND DEVELOPMENT FOR EXTRUSION-BASED ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING

Sisi Wang — 2019-07-10

Bio-material polylactic acid and poly(butylene adipate-co-terephthalate) were blended to achieve increased ductility of the blend. Cloisite was added to improve the stiffness of the blend. The blends were made into filament suitable for extrusion-based additive manufacturing. Melt flow index of the filament and mechanical properties of the printed bars were tested. Preliminary results showed that the melt flow index increases significantly with cloisite and the modulus of polylactic acid/poly(butylene adipate-co-terephthalate) improved slightly. The notched impact strength of the blend increased with increasing content of cloisite, and it increased significantly after annealing, especially for blends without cloisite.

3B1_0158_ METHODOLOGY FOR CONTINUOUS FIBRE ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING WITH IN-LINE IMPREGNATED THERMOPLASTIC COMPOSITES

Willem Van De Steene — 2019-07-10

This paper presents a methodology for Continuous Fibre Additive Manufacturing (CFAM) of a glass fibre filled polyamide 12 composite. The whole process, starting from impregnation of dry fibre bundles with polyamide, to deposition of the composite on the build platform is described and relevant parameters such as processing temperatures, pultrusion die diameter, deposition velocity, minimum fibre bending radius, ideal layer thickness and strand width, actual fibre volume fraction and tensile properties of the final composite were determined, calculated or estimated. A composite with a fibre volume fraction of about 40 vol% was successfully produced.

3B2_0224_ IMPROVEMENT OF THE ADHESION OF 3D PRINTED CONDUCTIVE POLYMER ON WOVEN FABRICS BY USING 3D NEEDLE-PUNCHING FABRIC

Nawar Kadi — 2019-08-14

3B3_0445_ AUTOMATED ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING OF SHORT FIBER PREFORMS WITH TAILOR-MADE PROPERTIES

Daniel Weise — 2019-08-14

P006_0240_ Designing clothes for wheelchair users featuring additive technologies

Marina A. Guseva — 2019-09-03

The article considers the principle of inclusive product design for people with disabilities and the tasks of anthropometric research. It describes the general requirements for clothing for the disabled and contemporary methods for determining the dimensional features of their figures, which differ in atypical morphology of the structure. It also shows the process of digital design of rehabilitating foot bags.

4B3_0259_ FUNCTIONALISATION OF POLYESTER FABRIC WITH BIO-BASED ANTIBACTERIAL ORTHO-VANILLIN USING MICROWAVES

P. Gressier — 2019-07-10

In the present work, ortho-vanillin was used to produce an antibacterial multifunctional polyester woven fabric using a one-shot diffusion process with microwaves. Since the bio-based ortho-vanillin has a solubility parameter close to that of PET, it can diffuse inside polyester fibers. Two methods were investigated and compared to functionalizee polyester fabric with O.vanillin using diffusion processes: an exhaustion procedure at High Temperature and Pressure-HTHP with a liquor ratio LR 1/20 at 130°C and dip/microwave technique was used with LR 1/1 and varying radiation powers (125W, 250W, 450W) for 3 to 7 minutes.

4B1_0561_ MICROENCAPSULATION OF C.I. REACTIVE ORANGE 122 VIA SOLVENT EVAPORATION

F. Dutra — 2019-07-10

Microencapsulations protects the dye molecule from secondary reactions and release until contact with the fiber, triggered by stimuli. The procedure was performed using poly(lactic-acid-co-glycolic-acid), PLGA, and polyvinyl alcohol, PVA, and was confirmed via optical microscopy. UV-VIS spectroscopy assessed the efficiency of the encapsulation; and, the mathematical models of Korsmeyer-Peppas and Higuchi quantified controlled-release of dye. The microcapsules formed a core-shell structure, with a perfect sphere shape and homogeneous size. The release adjustments yielded the apparent diffusion coefficient.

4B2_0620_ MICROWAVE-ASSISTED ENZYMATIC TREATMENTS OF COTTON KNITS

Burcu Yılmaz Şahinbaşkan — 2019-07-10

Microwave energy is a fast, uniform and effective method for pre-treatments of textile materials. Using pectinase, cellulase, laccase, etc. enzymes for treatments of cotton textile material before colouration have many advantages over conventional methods such as reducing the chemical damage of fibers, short process time, energy and water savings. Recently, microwave-assisted enzymatic treatment is a sustainable cleaner production technique for all natural fibers. Microwave-assisted dyeing and finishing methods can be applied successfully in the literature. There are limited works about microwave-assisted enzymatic treatment of cotton. In this work, the effect of microwave-assisted treatments with NaOH, pectinase, cellulase, laccase and combination of pectinase/cellulase, pectinase/laccase, pectinase/cellulase/laccase, pectinase/laccase/cellulase enzymes on conventional reactive dyeability of cotton fabric. Hydrophilicity, contact angle, whiteness/yellowness indexes of conventionally and microwave-assisted treated samples were measured and compared with conventionally treated samples with sodium hydroxide. Whiteness and yellowness results were adequate for dark-coloured samples. The CIELab colour coordinates, colour differences and fastness tests to rubbing/washing results of dyed samples were examined. The pilling test results (4+) and colour fastness to rubbing/washing (4-5 +) were investigated and adequate results were obtained. The time savings was almost 90% after microwave-assisted treatments. Finally, microwave-assisted enzymatic treatments can be an environmental and sustainable method due to short processing times. In addition using microwave-assisted enzymatic treatment processes were contributed to reduction of carbon footprint.

P007_0355_ Study on fluorescence characteristics and pyrolysis mechanism of natural indigo

Z.X. Ju — 2019-09-03

P008_0525_ New method of reactive dyes fixation

Marie Kašparová — 2019-09-03

4A1_0145_ A MULTI-SCALE TOOL FOR FUNCTIONALIZATION OF POLYOLEFINS THROUGH RADICAL GRAFTING

J. Hernandez-Ortiz — 2019-07-10

Free radical induced grafting of polymers is an important synthesis strategy to improve the properties of the pristine polymer and to ensure compatibility in blends. In this contribution, a multi-scale modeling tool is presented that enables to describe the grafting kinetics with a detailed description at the molecular, micro- and meso-scale combined with a 1D macro-scale reactor model. The potential of the model is illustrated with polyolefins as polymer substrate, including model validation to lab-scale and industrial scale data. It is highlighted that the model is indispensable to achieve the optimal process conditions for improved process intensification and functionality/molecular control.

4A2_0474_ MODELING OF ADAPTIVE SYSTEMS FOR INTERACTIVE FIBER RUBBER COMPOSITES

Felix Lohse — 2019-07-10

Usage of smart materials offers advantages like faster systems, responsive and reliable processes or improved operating characteristics. One solution is the integration of textile actuators based on shape memory alloys (SMA) into fiber-reinforced elastomeric composites. Novel composites from SMAs and elastomeric matrices enable high reversible deflections, controllable deformation and a great variety of movement patterns. For technical usage, a description of the mechanism is required, as well as modelling of the structural components and their properties. The aim of the presented research is a finite element approach as well as description and derivation of manufacturing parameters for relevant material combinations.

4A3_0475_ INTEREST OF IN SITU-RAMAN SPECTROSCOPY IN THE OPTIMIZATION OF PIEZOELECTRIC FIBERS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF ENERGY HARVESTERS.

François Rault — 2019-07-10

Energy harvesting is a promising concept that can be used in the development of smart textiles to solve one of the major issues: energy supply. Producing PVDF piezoelectric fibers is a possible way. However, to ensure the piezoelectric character and lead an electromechanical conversion its β phase is needed. The modification of crystalline phases is linked to the processing parameters. In-situ Raman spectroscopy measurements are made on a spinning device used for new synthetic fibers developments or small productions. The content of the crystalline phases α and β is measured for the first time at key points of such process.

4B4_0343_ EFFECT OF ALKALI TREATMENT ON BASIC PROPERTIES AND INTERFACIAL BONDING PROPERTIES OF POLYIMIDE FIBERS

Y. Qinghua — 2019-07-10

Polyimide(PI) fiber as a popular material with considerable development potential is widely used in the preparation of advanced composite materials. However, low surface energy and smooth surface of PI fiber lead to poor interfacial adhesion between the fiber and matrix, which seriously affects the performance of the composites. To overcome the above problems, alkali treatment was often used for surface modification of PI fiber. In this paper, PI fiber was modified by aqueous sodium hydroxide(NaOH) solutions. PI fibers were treated at temperature (30 ±1°C) with four different concentrations of NaOH solutions: 5, 10, 15, and 20% w/w for 2 min. The treated PI fibers were repeatedly washed with deionized water, dried in an oven at 60 °C for 12 hours, and placed in a sealed bag for use. The effects of alkali treatment on the mechanical properties, linear density, and thermal properties of PI fiber were analyzed. At the same time, the influence of modification on the interfacial shear strength of PI fiber was investigated by the single fiber fragmentation test(SFFT). After the alkali treatment, the mechanical properties and fineness of the PI fiber decreased slightly, but the thermal stability was almost unchanged. SEM observation showed that the impurities on the surface of PI fibers were removed after NaOH treatment, and there were corrosion spots or even pits on the surface of PI fibers with different degrees and random distribution. The best treatment effect was 10% concentration. The chemical structure of PI fibers before and after NaOH modification was analyzed by FT-IR. It was found that the modification only occurred on the surface of the fibers due to the small degree of hydrolysis of the imide ring.
And the interfacial shear strength of the PI fiber treated with 10% NaOH solution increased from 20.14 MPa to
23.74 MPa. Excessive concentration will decrease the interfacial adhesion performance of PI fiber, so attention
should be paid to the control of treatment conditions.

4B2_0625_ POLYACRYLONITRILE-LIGNIN BLENDS AS PRECURSORS FOR POROUS CARBON FIBERS

Mirko Richter — 2019-07-10

Polyacrylonitrile/lignin blends were spun by use of solvent wet spinning. The precursor fibers have been characterized by IR, rheometer, tensile tests and density calculation. Afterwards the fiber have been stabilized by means of a batch device and the stability indexes (S.i.) were assumed through differential scanning calorimetry.

4A4_0558_ HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE-BASED MICROPOROUS CARBON FIBERS AS HIGH-PERFORMANCE CATHODE MATERIALS FOR LI S BATTERIES

Nguyen Hoai An Tran — 2019-08-14

4B1_0665_ POLYURETHANE/GRAPHENE NANOCOMPOSITE FILMS WITH ENHANCED GAS BARRIER AND WEATHER RESISTANCE PROPERTIES

Bapan Adak — 2019-08-14

4B3_0423_ ARTIFICIAL TURF DEVELOPMENTS AND SPORT APPLICATIONS AT GHENT UNIVERSITY

Stijn Rambour — 2019-08-14

In the past decades artificial turf fields have developed into a worthy alternative for natural grass in outdoor sports appliance such as football, rugby and hockey. Heavy rainfall and periods of drought can affect a natural pitch. Several sport clubs own only a limited number of pitches and therefore are obligated to make full advantage of them. This is one of the reasons why many of these clubs are changing towards fields made of artificial turf which are always available, provided that the correct materials and maintenance are considered and regulated testing procedures are followed. The installation cost may be higher but an artificial turf field can be used more frequently than its natural counterpart and therefore be more profitable on the long run due to the lower overall maintenance costs. Furthermore, natural grass fields need enough sunlight for the grass to grow and cannot grow well in desert or extreme cold environments, whereas artificial turf can be used in many environments. Ghent University has a long history in the development and testing of artificial turf , which will be highlighted in this contribution.

P009_0148_ Efficient design of piezoresistive sensors based on carbon black conductive composites

Lingyan Duan — 2019-09-04

Flexible and stretchable sensors are widely investigated taking into account their potential for wearable electronics, such as electronic skin, healthcare monitoring, human-machine interfaces, and soft robotics. In this contribution, highly sensitive conductive polymer composites (CPCs) for piezoresistive sensing are summarized, considering a straightforward manufacturing process based on extrusion of thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) and/or olefin block copolymer (OBC), carbon black (CB), and additionally polyethylene-octene elastomer (POE) grafted with maleic anhydride (POE-g-MA). The design of the formulation variables is successfully performed to enable both low and high strain sensing, as highlighted by both static and dynamic testing.

P010_0154_ Nonwoven structures doped with carbon adsorbent and mesoporous silica material to deodorization

A. Brochocka — 2019-09-04

P011_0231_ Study on the effect of frieze process on physical and crimp properties of BCF polypropylene yarn

Sima Rahimzadeh — 2019-09-04

Today BCF Polypropylene (PP) yarn is used in machine made carpet as pile yarn. This yarn is subjected to heat setting process together with Frieze treatment for creation of resiliency and special effects. The aim of this research was to investigate the physical and crimp properties of BCF PP pile yarns subjected to Frieze treatment process. In this research,according to the experimental analysis design carried out by Design Expert software, the level of 3 parameters including, temperature of heat setting, vapor pressure and over feed ratio of Frieze process are determined.
Regarding to the obtained results by Design Expert software, 14 kinds of Frieze yarn sample along with a control yarn is produced. The physical properties of yarns including: linear density, shrinkage, crimp contraction are measured. Analyzing the experimental results shows that increasing the temperature of heat setting causes linear density and crimp contraction to be increased but shrinkage decreased.

P013_0486_ Interactive fiberbased material approaches for smart textile structures

Henriette Probst — 2019-09-04

P014_0590_ Development and testing of self-lubricating composite foil for bearings

Martin Chvojka — 2019-09-04

P015_0595_ Nanocellulose as a carrier of active dyes

Jana Šašková — 2019-09-04

The potential of nanocellulose consist in its modification possibilities. It can be modified easily by substances which can be chemically bounded with cellulosic -OH groups. Functionalized nanoparticles of cellulose can be used in nanocomposite area e.g. Presented work is focused on the preparation of nanocellulose and study the possibility of functionalization of nanoparticles with active compounds, such as dyes.

P016_0657_ Filter materials based on PLA nonwovens modified with zinc oxide

Dominik Borkowski — 2019-09-04

The following abstract discusses the current knowledge of the modification of polylactic nonwovens with zinc oxide to obtain filter materials. Below is a comparative analysis of PLA nonwovens without nanoaddition with nonwovens containing from 0.5% to 2.5% ZnO in their structure and with varying degrees of quilting.

1A2_0372_ POLY(LACTIC ACID) (PLA) BASED NANO-STRUCTURED FUNCTIONAL FILMS FOR PERSONAL CARE APPLICATIONS

Maria-Beatrice Coltelli — 2019-07-10

Replacing petro-based materials in personal care sector with renewable biodegradable counterparts is a correct strategy for taking care of the environment. Textured films are currently used in several applications in contact with skin, such as diaper and napkins. Poly(lactic acid) (PLA), fully renewable and compostable, with an intrinsic anti-microbial property, has enormous potentialities but it is necessary processing it by flat die extrusion to obtain flexible films. The plasticization of selected polymeric blends, obtained by using biodegradable and partially biobased polyesters as well as a citrate, and the control of melt viscosity by proper additives during extrusion were thus investigated.

1A3_0727_ ARCHETYPES OF SPIDER SILK

Jinlian Hu — 2019-07-10

Spider dragline silk is well-known for their excellent strength, extensibility, toughness and biological properties which overwhelmingly exceeds most of the engineered materials available today. Development of spider silk inspired materials is gaining interest due to their wide range of application potential. Various strategies like synthesis of recombinant spider silk, synthetic peptide polymers and polymer silk composites have been used to produce artificial spider silk materials. In our research group, we had demonstrated all these approaches to develop spider silk inspired fibers and materials.

1B4_0262_ THE FUTURE OF EDUCATION

Andrej Demsar — 2019-07-10

The most important tool for the responsible development of the future world is education. With education of new generations, we shape the future of the world. The most important part of education are pupils and in the case of higher education students. The future world belongs to them! Do we know who are they and what they really want? For this reason, the survey has been performed on the engineering faculty in Slovenia in which the students have been asked questions on the basis of which it would be possible to recognize their opinion and position which we should take in to account in the design of education in the future.

1B2_0441_ WET SPINNING OF COLLAGEN MULTIFILAMENT YARNS

Robert Tonndorf — 2019-07-10

Fiber based scaffolds for tissue engineering applications manufactured through textile technologies feature an anisotropic, highly porous, and controllable macro-, micro-, and nanostructure. For the fabrication of fiber based collagen scaffolds, collagen multifilament yarns are required. The paper summarizes a scalable collagen multifilament yarn production method. Collagen yarn production was realized via wet spinning and a 3D printed spin packs comprised of coaxial nozzles. Mechanical, thermal, structural, and biological characteristics of wet-spun collagen yarns are given.

1B3_0628_ RESEARCH ON THERMALLY INDUCED SHAPE MEMORY NONWOVEN FABRICS BASED ON BIODEGRADABLE POLYESTERS

J. Cinkusz — 2019-07-10

The aim of conducted research was to produce polylactide based nonwoven fabrics using melt-blown technology, having one-way shape memory effect triggered by temperature near human body temperature. In the current studies, thermal, morphological and shape memory properties of fabrics made from two polylactide based polymer blends with addition of atactic, low molecular weight polyhydroxybutyrate are compared. Thermally induced shape memory effect was evaluated in the thermomechanical experiments where the temperature and time of transition were measured.

1A1_0209_ ADVANCED RESEARCH OF THE FULLY RETURN-TO-NATURE POLYMER

Seong Hun Kim — 2019-08-13

1A4_0406_ INFLUENCE OF PLASMA TREATMENT ON LUMINESCENCE INTENSITY OF BIOMIMETIC LUMINESCENT TEXTILE

Sweta Iyer — 2019-08-13

The production of light by living organisms known as bioluminescence can be seen widely in marine and terrestrial creatures. This phenomenon of natural illumination is a chemical oxidation process, most of the light producing reaction involves a luciferase (enzyme) and luciferin (substrate) along with co-factors such as ATP, Mg+2 and Ca+2. In the present study, we demonstrate a biomimetic approach that enables luminosity on textiles. The enzyme and substrate components of luminous bacterial system were incorporated into plasma activated PET textile material and luminescence intensity was investigated. The intensity measurement allowed us to understand the interaction of enzymes adsorbed on textile material in presence of substrate. The analysis data revealed that the photons of light emitted by the reaction of luminous bacterial system on textiles could be measured in the form of relative light units (RLU). The research study propose a bioluminescence sytsem that can be used to obtain luminescent textile.

1B1_0662_ BIOMIMETIC FUNCTIONAL FIBERS INSPIRED BY SPIDER SILK

Harun Venkatesan — 2019-08-13

P019_0159_ Incorporation of microalgae in polypropylene by melting process for antibacterial and sustainable textiles

Aurélie Cayla — 2019-09-04

P020_0254_ Cotton and wool dyeing with Bixin and Norbixin: extracted by atomization and dynamic annatto maceration.

Marilés Bonet-Aracil — 2019-09-04

P021_0367_ The study of the molding capabilities of bacterial cellulose.

Igor Tyurin — 2019-09-04

The work is devoted to obtaining biodegradable non-woven cloths (films) based on bacterial cellulose, studying its mechanical and molding properties and studying the possibility of designing garments made on its basis. To obtain films of bacterial cellulose, a symbiotic culture was used, which was the result of the synthesis of acetic acid bacteria acetobacter xylinum and osmophilous yeast strains of schizosaccharomyces pombe.

P022_0656_ Analysis of physicochemical properties of ammonium alginate

Nina Tarzynska — 2019-09-04

1A1_0668_ SMART FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES CREATED BY THE APPLICATION OF MACRO-ENCAPSULATED PHASE CHANGE MATERIAL

Barbara Pause — 2019-07-02

A phase change material (PCM) absorbs or releases a large amount of so-called “latent heat” in a material specific temperature range while its temperature remains nearly constant. When the PCM absorbs latent heat, it melts from a solid into a liquid. In a textile application, the PCM needs to be properly contained to prevent dissolution while in its liquid state. In the macro-encapsulation technology, the PCM is cross-linked into a polymeric compound and contained therein. The polymeric compound with the PCM added to it can be directly applied to a textile carrier material in the form of a coating.

1A3_0106_ TEXTILE BASED DYE-SENSITIZED SOLAR CELLS WITH NATURAL DYES

Carsten Grassman — 2019-07-31

Natural dyes extracted from hibiscus petals, elderberries and mallow flowers were investigated in dye-sensitized solar cells. Two approaches were followed: 1. Hybrid glass/fabric cells with titanium dioxide on glass as working electrode and a textile counter electrode; 2. hybrid fabric/glass cells with zinc oxide as working electrode on textile and a glass counter electrode. The zinc oxide layer on cotton was prepared by electroless deposition whereas the titanium dioxide coated glass electrodes were obtained directly from the manufacturer. In both cases the redox couple consisted of iodine / triiodide and the counter electrode was based on an electrically conductive fabric.

1A4_0274_ DESIGNING OF CARBON NANOTUBES/COTTON FABRIC COMPOSITE FOR E-TEXTILES: EFFECT OF CARBON NANOTUBES-LENGTH ON ELECTROCONDUCTIVE PROPERTIES

Valentina Trovato — 2019-07-31

Nonfunctionalized carbon nanotubes featuring length over than 500 μm, were mixed with an amino-functionalized sol-gel precursor and a highly volatile solvent in order to obtain a well-dispersed solution. Finally, a thickener was added to the nanotubes dispersion thus obtaining a viscous paste, which was deposited on cotton fabrics through knife-over-roll technique thus achieving a surface coating with high electrical conductivity. The as-prepared conductive cotton fabrics were characterized by different chemical-physical techniques and showed a sheet resistance of about 9.5 • 102 Ω/sq. Developed conductive fabrics can find applications as conductive material or wearable sensors.

1B1_0503_ STRETCHABLE AND CONDUCTIVE TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR WEARABLE ELECTRONICS

Alper Gurarslan — 2019-07-31

Wearable electronics industry is growing exponentially as well as the demand for conductive textile materials. Ideally, conductive textile materials should be washable, breathable, and easily convertible into textile product using conventional textile machinery. These requirements are critical for creating comfortable wearable electronics products in a facile way. In this study we have developed conductive knitted and nonwoven textile materials using AgNWs. AgNWs were synthesized according to the polyol method and coated on aforementioned textile materials. Both synthesized AgNWs and coated samples were characterized with SEM. Moreover, samples’ electrical conductivity was investigated under stretching conditions. Results show that knitted samples perform higher stretchability than nonwoven samples. Nonwoven sample was employed as a touched based sensor which can be converted into wearable electronics products in the future. In conclusion, our results indicate that both fabrics might be used in wearable electronic industry.

1B2_0495_ A NEW-FANGLED FLEXIBLE NANOGENERATOR COMPRISING OF POLY (VINYLIDENE FLUORIDE) (PVDF)/ POTASSIUM SODIUM NIOBATE NANORODS (KNN-NRS) BASED NANOCOMPOSITE FILM

Satyaranjan Bairagi — 2019-07-31

In the recent days, Potassium Sodium Niobate (KNN) has drawn a great interest in piezoelectric applications because of their lucrative piezoelectric properties such as higher piezoelectric coefficient (d33 ~420 pC/N), larger value of dielectric constant (ε ~290) and higher electromechanical coupling factor (K33 ~0.64). In addition, KNN is lead free unlike Lead Zirconium Titanate (PZT) which contains more than 60% lead. Here we report the development of non-poled KNN nanorods (NRs) @ PVDF composite film based flexible nanogenerator. To achieve the goal, firstly, KNN NRs have been synthesized in our lab with process optimization and thereafter nanocomposite films have been prepared by solution cast method. As prepared films have been characterized by XRD and FTIR spectroscopy for structural analysis and SEM for morphological analysis. FTIR results have revealed that 10% KNN NRs @ PVDF composite film possesses the highest electroactive (β crystal) crystal phase (~98%). The reasons are the nucleating effect and uniform distribution of KNN NRs throughout the PVDF matrix which has also been reaffirmed by XRD results. The dielectric constant (ε) value (~23) and the energy density (0.053 J/cm3 at an electric field of 164 kV/cm) are also high in the case of 10% KNN NRs @ PVDF composite film. The KNN NRs incorporated non-poled nanocomposite based nanogenerator (10% KNN NRs @ PVDF composite film) is competent to generate open circuit voltage and output current up to 3.4V and 0.100μA (10MΩ resistance has been connected across the nanogenerator) by respective repeated compressive force on it, whereas current density generated by this generator was 0.025μA/cm2. It is the first time that the PVDF/ KNN NRs nanocomposite based flexible nanogenerator has successfully been demonstrated by us. The performance of our nanogenerator will surely open up a new root to use it as a lead-free polymer/ NRs based flexible piezoelectric energy harvester with low level of filler loading.

1B3_0664_ PROCESSING OF TEXTILE COMPOSITE MATERIALS BY USING SHAPE MEMORY ALLOYS

Esra Topel Zeren — 2019-07-31

Shape memory materials are stimulus-responsive materials and referred to use as smart materials/systems in the field of textiles in recent years. The aim of the study is to achieve shape memory fibers by adding the shape memory alloy particles (whiskers) into a polymer matrix. For this purpose, the whiskers are formed by thin films growth by magnetron sputtering. In our study targets were prepared with NiMnXY (X:Sn, Sb; Y:B)) metal in different atomic ratios and the sputtering parameters has been optimizing since the shape memory alloy thin films exhibited lower transformation temperatures around the body temperature.

1B4_0532_ MULTIFUNCTIONAL FLAX FIBRES BASED ON THE COMBINED EFFECT OF SILVER AND ZINC OXIDE (AG/ZNO) NANOSTRUCTURES

Sofia Costa — 2019-07-31

2A1_0485_ FUNCTION INTEGRATION - INNOVATIVE KNITTED FABRICS FOR LIFE 4.0

Florian Wieczorek — 2019-08-01

The internet of things (IOT) and industry 4.0 are main drivers for new developments. Consequently the interaction of virtual and real world by smart interconnecting of devices in our everyday life is the basis idea of the Cluster of Excellence "Centre for Tactile Internet with Human-in-the-Loop" (CeTI) at TU Dresden. To enable a user-centric approach in CeTI innovative textile structures, mainly knitted fabrics, and their functionalization by integration of sensors and sensor yarns are under investigation. In the first phase suitable sensor yarns and innovative structures are developed and characterized as a reference for later investigations.

2A2_0564_ PHOTODIODE AND LED EMBEDDED TEXTILES FOR WEARABLE HEALTHCARE APPLICATIONS

Achala Satharasinghe — 2019-08-01

This work presents a novel approach to embed miniature photodiodes (PDs) within the core of a textile yarn for wearable applications such as heart rate monitoring. These PD embedded E-yarns (PDEY) can be readily woven, knitted or embroidered into a comfortable, conformal, aesthetically pleasing, and washable fabric; this would overcome the challenges that many other electronic textiles currently face. The PDEYs exhibited an optoelectronic output comparative to free-standing PDs. PDEYs along with LED embedded yarns (LEDEY) were integrated into a knitted finger cuff to demonstrate a wearable PPG (photoplethysmography) heart rate monitoring device.

2A3_0644_ TOWARDS WASHABLE SMART TEXTILES: INVESTIGATING THE IMPACT OF OXIDIZING BLEACHING AGENTS ON SILVER-PLATED TEXTILE ELECTRODES

Valentin Gaubert — 2019-08-01

Although textile-based skin electrodes are promising for comfortable long-term monitoring, their washability remains an issue. In this study the impact of oxidizing bleaching agents, contained in commercially available detergents, on electrical properties of silver-plated textile electrodes is analyzed and discussed. To determine the best care instructions to maintain textile electrodes’ reliability, silver-plated knitted conductive fabrics have been washed 30 times using powder and liquid detergents (with and without bleaching agents, respectively). Results show that liquid detergents should be preferred to powder ones as those agents oxidize the silver layer, reducing its conductivity and making it more vulnerable to mechanical stress.

2A4_0102_ STUDY OF THE ELECTRICAL RESISTANCE OF SMART TEXTILES MADE OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL PRINTED CONDUCTIVE POLY LACTIC ACID ON POLYESTER FABRICS

Prisca A. Eutionnat-Diffo — 2019-08-01

In this study, conductive tracks are integrated onto textiles through Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) process and the correlation between the FDM process parameters such as platform temperature and speed, the textile properties such as porosity, pattern, roughness, density and structure, and the electrical resistance of the smart textiles made of conductive poly lactic acid polymer printed on fabrics is investigated.
In addition to study and understand the electrical properties of these conductive materials deposited onto textiles, they are maximized to guarantee their use in smart textiles field. The surface resistance measurements of the materials were carried out using a concentric ring probe technique. Findings are promising and important in the development of functionalized textiles as they demonstrate the feasibility of enhancing the electrical conductivity of textile composite materials through theoretical models based on the experimental data.

2B1_0690_ INFLUENCE OF THE LAMINATING PROCESS ON THE BEHAVIOUR OF CONDUCTIVE TEXTILE MATERIALS

Caroline Loss — 2019-08-01

This paper describes the influence of the laminating technique, typically used to produce printed textile antennas, on the return loss parameter (S11) of the produced antennas. The sheet resistance (Rs) of the conductive fabrics stand-alone was measured considering the use of steam, applying different adhesive sheets and taking into account the surface roughness of the substrate materials. The influence of this technique in the behaviour of a printed textile antenna is also analysed. The results have shown that the presence of the adhesive sheet may increase the Rs of the conductive materials. Despite that, in a general way, the results of S11 of the textile antenna produced by lamination show the antennas have a good performance.

2B2_0243_ DIRECT INK WRITING OF FUNCTIONAL PASTES AND INKS FOR SMART TEXTILES

Marina Normann — 2019-08-01

Additive manufacturing technologies, better known as three dimensional (3D) printing technologies, have been of increasing importance to the industry, research institutions and the private area. Simple structure generation with computer-aided design (CAD) and the broad diversity of materials available allows creating precisely tailored shapes for every application, making it a perfect technique for rapid prototyping. Furthermore, printing of functional pastes and inks with direct ink writing (DIW) as a fabrication method, allows realizing flexible structures on textiles for smart applications, e.g., conductive inks for circuit paths or heating structures, efficient printing of chromatic materials, manufacturing of sensors or precise placement of electrolyte materials for flexible energy systems. The manufacturing of smart textiles with the use of such innovative technologies as 3D printing allows creating prototypes with individual functions and designs in less time.

In this paper, we present a customized 3D printing device, capable of DIW on textiles, using a pneumatic controlled syringe-based extruding system. Ink and paste deposition is controlled carefully through printing- and pneumatic parameters, as well as fluid viscosity. We describe the process of pattern generation with CAD and translation to a layer-based data format. Several functional printing pastes and inks will be used to create smart textile systems with different functions e.g., heating, colour change, lighting and energy storage. The challenge is to provide a clean and reproducible printing result for smart textiles, withstanding multiple wearing and bending cycles, to provide a long-lasting function in daily life. To achieve a durable and washable textile, encapsulation of the printed surface is necessary. Implementing DIW into the manufacturing process of smart textiles has the advantage of easy scalable and precise printing results for flexible applications, time efficiency due to rapid CAD development, less waste due to precise material placement and therefore cost-efficient use of expensive material.

2B3_0031_ TOWARDS THE DEVELOPMENT OF SMART TEXTILE UV-SENSORS USING INKJET PRINTING AND UV-LED CURING

Sina Seipel — 2019-08-01

Research on smart textiles has been ongoing for many years, however only few smart textile products are available on the market. One reason to why smart textiles have not experienced the desired commercial success is that conventional production processes lack process flexibility and resource efficiency. For smart and functional products, which necessitate high-cost materials and require small batches, resource-efficient processes can boost their breakthrough. This paper focuses on the resource-efficient production of UV-sensing smart textiles based on photochromic dyes, which are printed by inkjet printing and cured by UV-LED light. Photochromic dyes dispose of a reversible color change initiated by photoelectric excitation [1]. This property makes the dyes suitable materials for smart textile sensor applications to alarm the user of the presence of harmful UV-rays with an indication of a colour [2]. With the aim to develop smart textile UV-sensors, the properties of two different types of commercial photochromic dyes – a naphthopyran and a spirooxazine – are investigated. This paper presents an overview of the required steps, which are necessary in the development of a UV-sensing textile, where ink jettability and the prints’ colour performance, durability and textile character are essential. The photochromic materials are analyzed through rheology and surface tension measurements, colour measurement, scanning electron microscopy and Kawabata evaluation system. Our work connects to other studies, where the kinetics of photochromic dyes are altered as a result of free volume and matrix rigidity surrounding the dye molecules [3-6]. This study focuses on how the photochromic performance can be tuned using fabrication parameters during printing and curing in a continuous production process. By changing fabrication parameters such as the amount of ink deposition, transportation belt speed and lamp intensity, the matrix rigidity of the UV-ink, which carries the photochromic dye, can be modified. A substantial finding as a result is that fabrication parameters influence dye kinetics, print durability as in abrasion and washing and the textile character and hence help to tune the performance of textile UV-sensors.

2B4_0457_ SURFACE FUNCTIONALIZATION OF FABRICS AS A METHOD FOR DEVELOPMENT OF SMART TEXTILE

M. Buzhor — 2019-08-01

The growing need for functional textile requires development of robust and efficient techniques for enhancement and surface modification of fabrics. Our group has recently developed a simple and modular method of covalent functionalization of woven and non-woven fabrics to produce smart textiles with adjustable properties that can react to the changes in the environment such as, temperature, pH and chemical composition. The method involves two steps and is based on commercially available bi-functional molecule that serves as a linker between fabric and functional materials. While one end-group of the molecular linker undergoes covalent attachment to the surface of the fabric, the other end-group can be subsequently connected to functional materials using thiolene click chemistry conditions. This work will detail examples of functionalization and characterization of fabrics made from natural and synthetic fibers with different types of functional materials such as water-repellent, electro-conductive and pH-responsive ones.

3A1_0324_ AUTOMATED VIRTUAL DEVELOPMENT AND ANALYSIS OF STRUCTURES FOR TEXTILE WEARABLES

Yordan Kyosev — 2019-08-01

This paper presents the main steps, which has to be performed for automated generation of electric circuits of textile structures for wearables. The generated 3D geometry of the textile structures is analyzed and the yarns are replaced by wires or resistances. Examples of testing the algorithm with woven and knitted structure and sewing stitch are presented. The generated circuit can be imported in specialized software and used for electric simulations.

3A2_0458_ TRIBO-ELECTRIC POWER GENERATING BEHAVIOR OF TEXTILE FLOCKED SURFACES

Yong K. Kim — 2019-08-01

Tribo-electrically diverse flocked fiber surfaces have been found to reliably generate respectable triboelectric energy signals. This technology has been named Flocked Surface Triboelectric (power) Generation (FSTG). By mechanically contacting [nylon fiber///polyester fiber] flocked surfaces, electrical power levels of up to 6 nano-watts/cm2 are easily generated. An apparatus has been constructed to systematically determine FSTG power levels generated by contacting/separating aluminum sheet-backed flocked panel surfaces at various contact/separation rates (Contacts Per Minute-CPM). Measurements show that power levels sharply increase at CPM rates below 120. Work is now in progress to significantly increase the power output level of these FSTG systems.

3A3_0443_ EMBROIDERED SPLIT RING RESONATOR ANTENNA

J. Hao — 2019-08-01

A textile integrated antenna made of a dipole and split ring resonators (SRR) produced by embroidery is under consideration. A size reduction of the antenna was achieved by means of a resonance of the SRRs and connection loss was lessened by using a copper wire for the dipole. Embroidery for SRR fabrication with metallic yarn was studied in order to achieve a minimal distance between concentric rings, and an antenna was designed and produced. The manufactured antenna showed a double band operation at 1.8 and 2.2 GHz with a measured gain of 0 and -3.1 dBi, respectively.

3A4_0722_ SMART FLEXIBLE MATERIALS CLOSE TO THE INDUSTRIAL BREAK-THROUGH

Daniela Zavec — 2019-08-01

Despite strong development effort inside R&D departments over the last decade smart textiles are still available only on the prototype level. One of the main reasons goes to the technology, which has not been developed or adopted for a serial production yet. Neither the market is ready to accept high prices beside the limited functionality smart textiles still have. The main objective of the paper is to present the relation “problem/solution fit” and “product/market fit” by the development of the smart textile product, the Textile Heating System which has been successfully transferred from prototype to a scale up level.

3B1_0685_ CHARACTERIZATION OF CARBON-NICKEL THERMOCOUPLES INTEGRATED IN TEXTILE FABRICS

Hardianto Hardianto — 2019-08-01

In this paper, the characterization of textile-based thermoelectric generators made of carbon fibers (C) and nickel-coated carbon fibers (Ni) integrated into polyester fabrics is reported. We used carbon yarns inserted into a fabric. The nickel was then deposited by an electrochemical reaction (electroplating) in order to form a series connection of C-Ni thermocouples (105 pairs). The electroplating process was done in such a way that all the hot junctions of the thermocouple chain were on one side of the fabric and all the cold junctions on the other side. A temperature difference across the fabric, which happens in all wearable garments due to the body heat, will then generate a voltage which can be used to power small electronic devices. Here, two electrical characterizations of the thermopile i.e. Seebeck coefficient and internal resistance are presented. All these measurements have been carried out on the C-Ni thermocouple chain formed on carbon yarn in the structure of the polyester fabric. The coefficient turned out to be 1219 μV/K or 11.61 μV/K for a single junction.

3B2_0409_ USER EXPERIENCE OF WEARABLE INFANT SLEEP MONITORING SYSTEM FOR MEDICAL RESEARCH AND DIAGNOSTICS

Elina Ilén — 2019-08-01

A large proportion of infants have frequent sleep-related issues, and some of them may also have an underlying medical adversity, such as preterm birth or neonatal infections. While infant sleep is currently only studied in hospitals using labor-intensive polysomnography measurements, there would be a clear need for recording in patient’s home as well. Here, we describe a newly developed mobile wearable system designed for such purpose, consisting of pull-up pants, with integrated motion sensor and textile ECG-sensors. The paper presents our preliminary findings of product user’s experience; a parent, a nurse and a doctor.

3B3_0164_ SMART TEXTILE BASED REMOTE IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM

Jan-Carlos Kuhlmann — 2019-08-01

Within this research a smart textile based light sensor was developed and integrated into a technical demonstrator of a remote identification system. This sensor is based on polymeric optical fibers (POFs) which contain fluorescent dopants and allows a remote detection using an optical laser pulse for identification. A possible use case for this system is remote identification to avoid “friendly fire” incidents. The smart textile sensor can be integrated with a very low footprint in protective textiles or other equipment of the individual. Besides defense applications, the system could also be adopted for applications in which a safe, secure and fast remote identification is needed.

3B4_0715_ EVALUATION OF CYBER SECURITY ASPECTS IN SMART TEXTILES APPLICATIONS

Manuela Bräuning — 2019-08-01

The SEKT project systematically investigates the cyber security of electronic communication systems and their integration within smart textile products. The main aims are the scientific investigation of cyber security of smart textile products, the transfer of existing security concepts as well as the development of secure innovative prototypes. Based on the knowledge gained, recommendations for further action will be derived and potential courses for the cross-sectoral knowledge transfer will be developed. An interdisciplinary team of scientists and companies from the fields of textile and clothing technology as well as information technology is facing up to this challenge.

1A2_0482_ TEXTILE-AMPLIFIED DIELECTRIC ELASTOMER ACTUATORS FOR SOFT ROBOTICS

Johannes Mersch — 2019-07-02

In recent years the field of soft robotics has gained a lot of interest both in academia and industry. One material class used frequently in soft robotics are dielectric elastomer actuators (DEA) consisting of a thin elastomer layer between two compliant electrodes. Their low mechanical strength and durability result in the necessity to add support structures. A textile based reinforcement of these actuators is advantageous, due to its highly anisotropic mechanical properties, which enhance the actuation and provide stability. In this paper a Carbon Fiber (CF) based reinforcement structure combined with DEAs is presented and discussed with respect to its actuation properties.

P100_0202_ TEMPERATURE-REGULATING TEXTILES USING SWITCHABLE INFRARED REFLECTIVITY

G. Abebe Muluneh — 2019-11-25

We numerically explore the concept of switchable infrared reflectivity using electrodynamic and thermal calculations for the use of passive temperature regulating textiles. We discuss the effects of metal and shape memory polymer coated fibers on the temperature dependent reflectivity of the textile fabric.

P101_0238_ DEVELOPMENT OF TEXTILE-BASED CAPACITIVE PROXIMITY SENSING STRUCTURES ON ROLLER BLIND FABRICS

Ozge Bayraktar — 2019-11-25

P103_0361_ THERMAL SENSITIVITY OF PEDOT:PSS FILM COATED ON TEXTILE FABRIC: A PRELIMINARY REPORT ON ITS POTENTIAL APPLICATION FOR SMART TEXTILE-BASED THERMAL SENSOR

Ida Nuramdhani — 2019-11-25

P104_0369_ THE TECHNOLOGY OF SHAPE MEMORY AS A WAY OF CLOTHING FIT IMPROVEMENT

Igor Tyurin — 2019-11-25

The work is devoted to the study of the possibilities of using shape memory materials in clothing design. Shape memory clothing can reduce the underwear space when the temperature is heated above the activation temperature.

P105_0455_ Prototyping and analysis of a textile loop antenna by an embroidery process for near field communication (NFC) applications

Baptiste Garnier — 2019-11-27

P106_0598_ HIGH FLEXIBLE AND DURABLE CARBON NANOTUBES ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE POLYMER BASE ANTENNA FOR BLUETOOTH

Robert Olejnik — 2019-11-27

P107_0602_ SEAT COVER INTEGRATED PRESSURE SENSOR

Mohamed Amine Ben Lagha — 2019-11-27

P108_0631_ THE STUDY ON SEEBECK EFFECT OF TEXTILE THERMOCOUPLE MANUFACTURED BY EMBROIDERY TECHNIQUE

Soohyeon Rho — 2019-11-27

Textile thermocouples, designed with conductive yarns by embroidery, was developed for measuring of temperature. Electromotive force (emf) of them was measured in the temperature range between 20℃ and 40℃. The emf of embroidered thermocouple linearly was increased and experimentally measured Seebeck coefficient was 21.96μV/℃. It was considered that the embroidered thermocouple might be a candidate of temperature sensors with more setretchable and durable properties than metal embedded textile products.

P109_0684_ PHOSPHORESCENCE BASED HYBRID ILLUMINATION SYSTEM

Dana Křemenáková — 2019-11-27

P110_0734_ DEVELOPING OF THE SMART TEXTILE FOR ENERGY EXPENDITURE MONITORING

Auli Piedra — 2019-11-27

1A1_0480_ ANALYSIS OF THE STICH FORMATION PROCESS AND MODELLING OF THE YARN MOVEMENT IN HIGH PERFORMANCE TRICOT KNITTING MACHINES

Christian Franz — 2019-08-01

In the textile industry, the development and production of sophisticated textiles characterized by extremely high quality and performance as well as additional functions is continuously enhanced. The warp knitting process offers excellent conditions due to the high variety of pattern design. The processing of low-stretch yarn materials, such as staple fibers or high-tenacity yarns, is challenging, particularly at high production rates. Therefore, the interactions between knitting elements and yarn in the stitch formation process are modeled.

1A2_0081_ INFLUENCE OF WEAVE PARAMETERS ON FABRIC TEAR STRENGTH

Brigita Legaudienė — 2019-08-01

The customer satisfaction for the most part is aesthetic requirements and mechanical properties. The functional properties of fabrics are very important for their usage. It is well known fact that the tear strength depends on the properties of yarns, from which fabric is manufactured as well as on the weave of the fabric. The influence of the weave on woven fabric tear strength is analysed in this paper. The aim of the present paper was to investigate the influence of the weave on tear strength. The main problem is to find a parameter with which the tear strength could be predicted.

1A3_0641_ HYBRID WEFT-CATCHING SYSTEM FOR AIR-JET WEAVING MACHINES

Thomas Gries — 2019-08-01

With around 1,200 companies, the German textile and clothing industry is one of the largest branches of industry in Germany. One of the main characteristics of this branch of industry is the high number of small and mediumsized enterprises (75%). In 2014, German weaving mills alone achieved a turnover of € 1,577 million. There are 61 weaving companies in Germany with a total of approx. 8,600 employees. About 60 % of the companies (in about 40 companies) are located in the field of technical textiles, which produce high-quality goods.

A large part of the technical fabrics is produced using the air-weaving process, which is currently the most productive weaving process. The motivation for the development results from a problem on the part of the economy. During weft insertion, the stretch nozzle on air-jet weaving machines does not reliably capture and stretch the weft thread. This misconduct leads to mistakes. 60 - 80 % of machine downtimes during the processing of staple fibres and up to 90 % for filaments are due to weft faults. It is also possible that weft faults can only be detected after coating. In order to eliminate such weft faults, a longer blowing time, which is not necessary for the process, is currently being accepted. In addition, the length of the selvedge is increased so that the thread can be reliably gripped.

In order to avoid errors, a new type of catching system is being developed in the project which reliably tightens the weft yarn and does not require any additional stabilization. A hybrid catch and draw system for weft yarns is planned, consisting of a pneumatic and a mechanical component adapted to the fluid flow. As soon as the pneumatic component has caught the yarn and positioned it in the reed channel, the mechanical component is activated. The mechanical component holds the yarn securely and thus prevents backward movements of the yarn. By securely holding the yarn, the relay nozzles can be deactivated at an early stage, thus counteracting the high energy consumption of air-jet weaving machines.

1B1_0707_ SHAPING THE BENDING STIFFNESS OF DISTANCE KNITTED FABRICS THROUGH AUXETIC CUTS USING LASER PLOTTER

Katarzyna Pieklak — 2019-08-01

Warp knitted distance fabrics are spatial structures with a thickness of several to dozens millimeters. Their properties, such as: high air permeability enabling passive ventilation of the product, moisture transport ability, or high elastic recovery after removing compressive forces cause that these structures find new application areas, thus replacing commonly used foamed materials.

Difficulty of using spacer fabrics in 3D constructions with a curved surface is caused by their drapability. Anexample of such a construction with a spherical surface may be shock absorbing elements used in protectors, helmets, etc.. The impact barrier elements have a large radius of curvature and are usually made of plastic, in a layered or foamed form. The authors of the paper decided to replace these materials with 3D fabrics. In order to improve the multi-directional deformation of these knitted fabrics, the authors were inspired by auxetic materials. The spatial architecture of these materials was used to design geometrical systems along which cuts were made on distance knitted fabrics using a laser plotter. These cuts significantly increase the rate matching knitted materials into curved planes by reducing surface bending stresses without changing the compression stiffness.

In the first stage of the research, the parameters of the laser plotter cutting process of distance warp knitted fabrics, made of synthetic yarns, were optimized. Then, for selected structures of distance knitted fabrics, directions of auxetic cuts on the surface as well as through the entire thickness of the spatial textile material were modeled. For the obtained variants, the bending stiffness was determined and the impact of the cutting process on the change in multidirectional drapability of the analyzed materials was described.

As a result of the research, optimal parameters of the knitted structure were determined and it was found that the parameter of spatial drapability of 3D knitted fabrics on spherical surfaces depends among other things on: the shape and curvature radius of the impact damping element on which the knitted fabrics are placed; the structural parameters of the knitted fabric, including its thickness; as well as on the geometry of the cuts made using a laser plotter.

1B2_0557_ ADVANCES IN THE FIELD OF DIGITALIZATION BY MULTIMODAL INSPECTION OF TEXTILES - DIGITAL HAPTICS

Sybille Krzywinski — 2019-07-02

A current interdisciplinary research project focuses on the development of application-oriented principles for tools for the multimodal, in particular tactile, inspection of textile surfaces for communication systems. For this purpose, product actuators have been created to scan the virtual surface and to capture the "frequency image" of the surface structure, so that a haptic perception can be simulated and tactile properties can be derived from it by stimulation of the sensory organs. To improve perception, these data are extended by auditory and visual modalities to achieve a multimodal description of product surfaces. The parameters are combined to a compressed representation of the information and converted by tactile actuators. Another focus are the development and selection of suitable techniques for the reproduction of tactile properties of surfaces. In addition, it is important to ensure the synchronization of the displayed modalities during transmission. For this purpose, requirements are determined which result from the selected HMI devices on the user side and the achieved project results for the product interface.

1B3_0287_ TEXTILE INDUSTRY 4.0 – PREPARING FOR DIGITAL FUTURE

Arun Aneja — 2019-07-02

The classical textile industry in the US, Europe and Japan has been in a state of flux for the past few decades. This has been characterized by massive reduction in work force, production outsourcing to SE Asia (mainly China and India), virtually no new infrastructure/asset investment, reduced R&D spending with no novel polymers developed which forms the basis of man-made fibers, etc. Companies like DuPont, Celanese, and Toray which were once synonymous with fibers are now a shadow of their former prowess. The rise of the fourth industrial revolution, or Industry 4.0, is likely to hold the growth panacea, drive changes for a better future and set a trajectory to attain its former glory.

1B4_0153_ TIME-DEPENDENT CALCULATION OF THE VELOCITY OF A YARN LAUNCHED BY THE MAIN NOZZLE OF AN AIR-JET LOOM

Lucas Delcour — 2019-08-07

In air-jet weaving looms the yarn is initially accelerated by the main nozzle. To obtain a high yarn velocity a high air velocity is required which results in complex flow patterns. Consequently, predicting the influence of a change in geometry or inlet pressure on the yarn velocity is not straightforward. In this research a fast time-dependent fluid-structure interaction framework is used to model the acceleration of a yarn during launch. Initially, the performance of the framework is assessed by considering a smooth monofilament yarn. A suggestion is also madeand tested to deal with the surface texture of hairy/multifilament yarns.

P083_0093_ ESTABLISHING THE OPERATING SPEEDS OF EMBROIDERY MACHINE: A FUZZY LOGIC APPROACH BASED ON VIBRATION AND NOISE MONITORING

Calin Florin Baban — 2019-11-20

The aim of this study is to recommend an operating speed of embroidery machines that corresponds to that level of vibrations and noises for which there are no quality defects on the surface of the embroidered material, according to the geometric entities that describe the embroidery pattern. For this purpose, a fuzze decision system was developed considering the levels of vibrations and noises of these machines.

P084_0206_ DEVELOPING OF SAILCLOTH TO BENEFIT FROM WINDS DEFINED AS LOW INTENSITY ON BEAUFORT SCALE WITH THE HIGHEST EFFICIENCY

Gülben Habibe Selvi — 2019-11-20

In the development of sails sail clothes have a big importance. Present applications on sail clothes include techniques based on yarn, finishing and lamination. In this project a sail cloth has special construction can benefit from acting effect of winds even at low speed will be developed as a woven fabric. The surface of fabric which clutch the wind successfully will be designed inspiring by the tubercle structure of humpback whale fin. Wavy surface is the aim of design. In this way the frictional area increased and the wind gains a suitable precession. With this precession the suction effect of flow for movement increases. Herewith the minimum spacing on Beaufort Scale for the acting of sails can be reduced to 3.5-4 knots from 4-6 knots. The project aims to provide the basic properties of sailcloth such as UV resistance and sea water resistance using high tenacity polyester yarn as well.

P085_0226_ EFFECT OF PROCESS PARAMETERS ON RECOVERY BEHAVIOUR OF POLYESTER-COTTON BLENDED ELI-TWIST AND TFO YARNS

Sujit Kumar Sinha — 2019-11-20

The relationship between magnitude of instrumental measurement of the elastic recovery properties and some yarn parameters has been studied. As compared to Eli-Twist yarns, TFO yarns are better in terms of recovery characteristics. In general, yarns with high polyester content in the fibre mix having higher immediate elastic recovery and lower permanent deformation. High amplitude of extension reduces the immediate elastic recovery and delayed elastic recovery. Coarser yarns have high immediate elastic recovery and low permanent deformation.

P087_0298_ HIGH SPEED TEST BENCH FOR WEFT INSERTION COMPONENTS

John Lammers — 2019-11-21

P088_0311_ AN ARTIFICIAL NEURAL NETWORK APPROACH FOR PREDICTING THE PERFORMANCE OF COTTON/ELASTANE BLEND CORE YARN

Enver Can Doran — 2019-11-21

The core yarn is a type of yarn that has a filament fiber in the center with a different fiber (especially cotton) wrapped around it. They have a raising importance in the textile industry. That is why error free production and design of models that can correctly estimate the product quality parameters from fiber quality and spinning parameters are needed more and more. In the literature review, a lot of artificial neural network based estimating models for the yarn production, fabric, finishing etc. can be found. However, these prediction approach did not apply on the core yarns. The artificial neural networks can be seen to show much success in the textile. Therefore, in this study the Artificial Neural Networks (ANN) was proposed to estimate the quality control parameters of core yarns. The dataset used to feed the ANNs includes 37 types of fibre quality characteristics and spinning parameters as inputs and 11 types of core yarn performance values as outputs. There are 227 samples for each of them without any missing data. The quality characteristics of the fibre are collected from both high volume instruments (HVI) and advanced fibre information system (AFIS) machines. All the available learning algorithms for ANNs was used to get a more detailed comparison and to make sure we have a valid data different number of nodes were used for the hidden layer on the artificial neural networks. ANNs have 37 nodes of an input layer and 11 nodes of an output layer. In the architecture of ANNs, sigmoid function is used as activation function. Mean Square Error (MSE) and Mean Absolute Percentage Error (MAPE) with R squared values were used as performance indicators. The neural networks were shown to have the best MSE and MAPE values. The developed model has shown to have over 90% success rate for most of the cotton/elastane core yarn quality characteristics.

P089_0407_ INVESTIGATION OF EFFECT OF DIFFERENT FRICTION BEHAVIOURS ON THE FIBER LOSS DEGREE FOR RAISED 3- THREAD FLEECE FABRIC

Onur Balcı — 2019-11-21

In the study, it was investigated the effect of the three types of friction behaviour on the fibre loss tendency of the raised 3-thread fleece fabric, known as futter fabric. Face of 3-thread fabric contacted with the skin is raised for having well touch feeling and thermal comfort. The fabric is napped with the effects of the raising process. By raising, some fibres hold to the fabric at least one side, while others could be standing freely on the surface though fibre ends leave the fabric construction. During the usage of the raised fabric, the fibres standing freely on the surface could be caused some disadvantages for customers. There are not any standards that could measure the fibre loss degree from surface of raised fleece fabrics. In this experiment, three different test devices having different friction character were used and it was investigated the fibre loss degree on the rubbed surface as qualitative and quantitative approaches by using subjective evaluation and SEM analyses. In the study, the 3-thread fleece fabric, which is called 30-70-14, contain combed ring yarn (Ne 30) for the front face, %50/50 cotton/PES blended open-end yarn (Ne 14) for the back face and filament PES (70 denier) as connection, was used as specimen. The fleece fabric was dyed to black colour by using both the reactive and the disperse dyestuffs. In the study, during the test, the woven, single jersey and rib knit fabrics were chosen as adjacent fabrics in terms of friction on the raised face of the fabric. The tests were repeated at two conditions by using dry and humid adjacent fabrics because of the changeability of the friction coefficient between dry and humid surfaces. The fibre loss tests were made by martindale devices having different friction character. In these devices, beside differences of the type of friction, the test period was also accepted as test parameters. According to tests, it was seen the friction character was crucial effect on the fibre loss and the most fibre loss on the raised fabric was found at Martindale test device having sinusoidal movement. Moreover, the fibre loss at the raised fabric increased with using of humid adjacent fabrics, associated with the escalating of friction coefficient and friction time by using subjective and SEM analyses. Thus, it could be said, it must consider these three parameters while developing fibre loss performance test for raised fabric.

P090_515_ EVALUATİON OF SOUND ABSORPTİON PROPERTİES OF COTTON/POLYPROPYLENE NON-WOVEN FABRİCS

Simin Bakhtiyari — 2019-11-21

The sound absorption properties of cotton/polypropylene blended fabrics were evaluated in this work which is rarely considered in the literature. Fabrics were made using the needlepunching method. Three different variables were taken into account: The blend ratio, the number of punching, and the frequency. Experimental results showed that the sound absorption is reasonable in frequencies less than 1000 Hz which is in the range of vehicles noise pollution. The maximum sound absorption achieved in the blend ration of cotton/polypropylene (30/70). The results showed that two times of punching is the optimum condition which resulted in the increasing of the absorption coefficient.

P091_0573_ WARP THREADS STRESS VARIATION DURING HANDLOOM WEAVING

Ivelin Rahnev — 2019-11-21

The weaving cycle for making a weft involves three basic actions that begin with the opening of the shed, promotion the weft by the shuttle and beating-up the weft to the end of the fabric through the reed brought by the batten. For industrial weaving machines, the longitudinal displacement of the warp is achieved within the weaving cycle by unwinding the weaving warp and pulling the raw fabric from the work area. At the hand weaving looms, the longitudinal displacement of the warp threads goes beyond the weaving cycle and follows the possible movement of the batten between the heddle frames and the end of the woven fabric. The maximum stroke of the batten is constructively limited between the heddles and the bearers of the take-up roller at the front end point. With each beating-up of the next weft, this front end point of the weaver’s reed reversing motion is shifting back to the heddles. The reason for this is the overlapping of wefts, one after the other, and the longitudinal immobility of the warp and the fabric in the work area. The main result is the shortening of the base length of shed. Its height remains unchanged and therefore, after each beaten weft the tension in the main threads increases. Thus, it changes the conditions of intercrossing and mutual working of the warp and weft threads. From this point of view, hand weaving is not limited by the thread-binding technique but requires additional knowledge and skills on textile materials. Subject of this paper is the variation in the tension of the warp threads during the weaving on hand horizontal looms. Aim of the work is to establish the analytical relationships between the geometric parameters of the handlooms and the variation of mechanical conditions in the hand weaving. Performance tasks include bibliography research, technological observation, measuring of constructional proportions and calculations. Main question in the teaching of weaving technique is looking for the section or the balance between the complex analytical description and the practical skills for the weaving cycle adjustment.

P093_0677_ A CELL-BASED SMOOTHED FINITE ELEMENT USING A FOUR-NODE QUADRILATERAL ELEMENTS FOR STATIC AND EIGEN BUCKLING ANALYSIS OF NON-WOVEN FABRIC

Q.T. Nguyen — 2019-11-22

This paper presents the modification of curvature and transverse shear strains of a four-node quadrilateral Reissner-Mindlin plate element (Q4) using the cell-based smoothed finite-element method (CS-FEM) for static and eigen buckling analysis of non-woven fabric. This is to improve the computation efficiency and accuracy of the Q4 element without much modifying to the configurations of Q4 in FEM. The Q4 plate elements exists the phenomena, known as shear locking, that is caused by parasitic shear deformation energy which yields an artificial additional stiffness, appear as the bending plates becomes progressively thinner. In order to overcome this drawback, the reduced integration methods on smoothing domains of Q4 element was used. The non-woven fabric material was assumed as isotropic material, and its mechanical properties was measured using the Kawabata’s evaluation system for fabric (KES-FB). The numerical implementation and results demonstrated that the Q4 plate element based on CS-FEM possesses the following improved properties: accurate than those of the FEM using quadrilateral elements having the same sets of nodes; this method can be also temporally stable for buckling analysis, and the computational efficiency is better than the FEM using the same configurations of nodes.

P094_0681_ INVESTIGATION ON THE USAGE OF THE WAXED YARNS FOR PREVENTING DUST PROBLEM DURING THE WEAVING PROCESSES OF THE COTTON/POLYESTER BLENDED FABRIC

Yılmaz Yıldız — 2019-11-22

In the textile industry, it has been seen the dust during the weaving preparation processes and weaving processes of the Cotton/Polyester blended yarns due to the polyester fibres. The dust especially occurs during the weaving processes because of the leaving of the non-participating fibres in the yarn structures from the yarn surface by helping friction. The dust, in the course of pulling the warp yarn, causes the end-down and fly. On the other hand, the dust, in the course of weaving, causes fly, thread breakage and warp streak. In the study, it was utilized the waxes, which have been using for coating and gaining lubricity to the yarns in the knitting processes, for reducing dust during weaving preparation and weaving processes. A various type weaved fabric was obtained by changing weft yarn type and count, weft and warp yarn paraffin situation. During the production of the fabric dust measurement was taken. Then the results were analysed statistically. Consequently, it was seen that the wax usage and wax type are effective on the minimizing dust forming in the course of woven fabric production.

P095_0682_ INVESTIGATION OF THE EFFECTS OF FIBRE CONTENT AND WEAVING MACHINE PARAMETERS ON THE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY PERFORMANCE OF THE FABRIC BEFORE AND AFTER FINISHING

Yılmaz Yıldız — 2019-11-22

In this study, it was aimed at detailed investigation of the parameters (fibre content, fixing type and weaving looms type) that affect shrinkage test, elasticity, residual extension and fabric width of the woven fabric. With this aim, in the study, 18 different types of 3/1 S twill fabrics were weaved by choosing 3 different blends, 2 different fixing situation of the yarns (fixed and non-fixed yarn) and 3 different weaving looms (itema and picanol-rapier weaving machine, zax- air jet weaving machine). Pre-treatment processes were done for all the fabrics, and the fabrics were dyed by impregnation method at the same reactive dyeing recipe. A set of tests such as (shrinkage test, elasticity, residual extension etc.) were employed the fabrics in the study. The data from the tests were analysed statistically. According to the variance analyses with the 95% confidence range, it was observed the fibre content was not significant (p>0,05) while fixing situation of the yarns and weaving loom type were significant (p<0,05).

P096_0731_ DIGITALIZATION OF NONWOVEN CARDS

Frederik Cloppenburg — 2019-11-22

Although automation technology is developing rapidly, setup and control of nonwoven cards is still done manually and based on the experience of the machine user. In Germany alone this leads to scrap production worth 50 Mio. € per year. Aim of the Easy Nonwoven 4.0 project is to develop a cost/effort based setting aid for the most important drive speeds of nonwoven cards. The goal will be achieved by an improving optical inspection systems placed directly behind the card doffer, a measuring and automation system, which will collect production and product data and a multi-criteria optimisation routine. The systems have been installed on a pilot line and an industrial production line. The gathered big data has successfully been used to model the quality parameters and energy consumption based on the machine settings, material parameters and surrounding conditions. The neural networks used for the modeling are precise enought to simulate the carding process in a multicriteria optimization.

1A1_0422_ ECO- AND AQUA-FRIENDLY NANO CRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE PREPARATION UNDER DEEP EUTECTIC SOLVENT

Hee Jin Kim — 2019-08-07

Water soluble esterified nanocellulose (ENC) was prepared with various anhydrides in expeditious, yet ecofriendly ways by using deep eutectic solvent (DES), ultrasonic and microwave irradiation. Phthalic anhydride and DES made of oxalic acid and choline chloride were mainly used as a reagent and solvent. Results indicated that shape and size of ENC could be varied by preparation methods. Analyses of ENC suggested that oxalic acid participated as both solvent and reactant, forming various types of anhydrides with reagent and cellulose. Characterization of ENC was performed by various instruments such as FTIR, TGA, X-ray diffraction, SEM, and zeta potential analyzer.

1A2_0103_ NANOFIBROUS WEBS POROSITY AND THEIR STRUCTURE ESTIMATION

Virginija Kleivaitė — 2019-08-07

The investigations in electrospinning process development have become very intensive in the last decades and a lot of papers have been published about the development of technology of electrospinning, influence of some parameters on electrospinning, possibilities to electrospun nanofibrous web from various polymers as well from the blends and with additional functional nano or micro particles. There is no single opinion about the reasons for such phenomena as the distribution of the nanofibre diameter is also very sophisticated. The main problem is that the measurements of the diameter are distributed in an unclear distribution, and to characterise webs mathematically and evaluate the shape of the distribution obtained is not easy.

1A3_0405_ GRAPHENE BASED FIBER SHAPED SUPERCAPACITORS

O. Cakar — 2019-08-07

Supercapacitors have been widely used in many applications from hybrid vehicles to smartphones due to their fast charge-discharge rate and high cycling stability. Nevertheless, traditional bulky supercapacitors have not responded well to the needs of smart wearables. Fiber shaped materials pushed the state of art by promising lightweight, flexible and robust wearable energy storage components. In this study, pristine GO fibers were spun wet-spinning method and then coated by pyrrole (Py). Promoted by FeCl3, polymerization was completed and polypyrrole (PPy) coated GO fibers served as electrodes. This flexible PPy/GO fiber electrodes demonstrated a specific capacitance of 177.45 F/g.

1A4_0507_ MULTIFUNCTIONAL FIBROUS STRUCTURES BASED ON GRAPHENE NANOPLATELETS, CHITOSAN AND NATURAL FIBRES

Diana Ferreira — 2019-08-07

1B1_0606_ PHOTOSWITCHABLE NANOMATERIALS FOR THE DESIGN OF LIGHT-RESPONSIVE SMART TEXTILES: FROM COATING TO ADVANCED FIBER-SPINNING TECHNOLOGY

Tânia V. Pinto — 2019-08-07

This work reviews our recent achievements on a novel generation of UV/sunlight responsive silica nanoparticles (SiO2 NPs) and smart textiles. Photoresponsive organic – 2H-naphtho[1,2-b]-pyran (2H-NPT) and 3H-naphtho[2,1-b]pyran (3H-NPT) derivatives – and inorganic – phosphomolybdic acid (PMo12) – compounds were selected to tune the photochromic response and color palette range of the SiO2 NPs and corresponding smart textiles. The SiO2 NPs were functionalized by covalent post-grafting of 2H-NPTs and 3H-NPTs, and by non-covalent electrostatic immobilization of PMo12. The resulting hybrids were incorporated onto fabric substrates by screen-printing and within fibers through advanced fiber-spinning processes − wet spinning and melt spinning − at pre-industrial scale.

1B2_0194_ FABRICATION OF POROUS POLYPROPYLENE FIBERS EMBEDDED WITH NANOSILICA BASED ON IMMISCIBLE POLYMERS BLEND BY MELT SPINNING AND SELECTIVE EXTRACTION

Xiang Yan — 2019-08-07

Development of methods for the functionalization of fibrous materials to improve properties meets the increasing demand for technological needs in various fields. The use of a combination of two immiscible polymers in a filament can allows new high added-value advanced structures. In this study, melt spinning technology was adopted for the polypropylene/polyvinyl alcohol (PP/PVA) blends containing silica nanoparticles, aimed at fabricating biphasic fibers with unevenly distributed silica nanoparticles. The localization of silica nanoparticles has been revealed mainly due to the thermodynamic factors, and the design can help produce a surface-decorated fibrous scaffold with embedded nanoparticles after the selective extraction. The fiber morphology was also investigated by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). Its mean diameter of PVA dispersed phase within PP matrix can reach submicron scale, with the specific interface area over 3.2 m2/g, which can provide a fiber porous structure. In addition, the mechanical properties of the multifilament fibers were studied via tensile test as well, and the interface-located silica nanoparticles has the slightest impact. Its mechanical properties can be maintained to a great extent as well, which gives a premise for further textile utilization.

1B3_0301_ NANOSCIENCE APPROACH TO MIMIC WOOL FIBRE FOR STAIN PROOF TEXTILE

Azam Ali — 2019-08-07

Textile surfaces with fully customisable hydrophobicity or hydrophilicity are an elusive goal for textile researchers. Wool fibres and fabrics possess both hydrophobic and hydrophilic attributes, conferring their natural ability to absorb moisture and to breathe, and to offer partial resistance to staining (oil, dirt, wine). Technologies to further improve the stain-repellency of wool fabric are highly desirable. Numerous reports claim to have achieved tailored hydrophobicity by altering the chemical nature of the surface using technologies such as plasma treatment, or the addition of TiO2 or polysiloxane polymer coatings. The aim and focus of this study was to impart lotus leaf attributes to the wool surface using nanoscience technology, with the goal of maximising stain resistance while retaining wool’s desirable natural properties.

In particular, this study describes an effort to mimic the wool through nanoscience approaches to create lotus leaf attributes onto its surface to maximise the natural attributes of wool surface. Therefore, wool textile or garment can naturally resist stain. A liquid dispersion with biopolymer consisting of wool keratin proteins (i.e. intermediate filament protein) and nano-particles comprises TiO2 based colloidal dispersion was prepared and applied to create a self-assembling layer onto wool fibre, resulting a rough surface similar to the lotus leaf texture on the fibre or fabric and generates superhydrophobic property. The wool fibre also shows a desirable handling property since it takes place at nanoscale level. The attenuated total reflectance (ATR) method was applied to quantify the chemically alteration of functionalities of the wool fiber surface such as hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity. Furthermore, the surface morphology of the treated and untreated wool fibre, observed by scanning electron microscope, atomic force microscope (AFM) and the contact angle measurement, is related to the superhydrophobic performance. This excellent superhydrophobic property was demonstrated onto the pretreated
wool fibre (contact angle, >140o) compared to control fibre (contact angle ~120°).

1B4_0487_ TEXTILES / CLOTHING AND NANOTECHNOLOGY : WHERE ARE WE NOW?

Paul Kiekens — 2019-08-07

P053_0205_ SYNTHESIS OF GRAPHENE OXIDE FOR TEXTILE DYE DEGRADATION UNDER VARIOUS PHOTO CATALYTIC CONDITIONS

Muzahidur Rahman Chowdhury — 2019-11-19

Dyeing industry consumes large quantities of water and produces large volumes of wastewater from different steps in the dyeing and finishing processes. The effluent discharged from this sector is a cause of major environmental pollution. In the present study Graphene-Oxide was synthesized and its photocatalytic performance was evaluated for de-colorization of Methylene Blue (MB) dye under sunlight and ultraviolate light condition.

P054_0469_ SOUND ABSORPTION CHARACTERISTICS OF MULTIPLE LAYERS OF NANOFIBER AND MELT-BLOWN WEBS

Hodong Kim — 2019-11-19

Sound proofing technologies are getting more attention to the environmental application as well as safety measure. Among various new materials, textile sound absorbents including nanofibers and melt-blown microfibers are very strong candidate for this application, and are getting more and more popular on the comercial market as noise reduction material. In this study, sound absorption characteristics of these new textile materials are analyzed by investigating the acoustic characteristics of nanofibers, melt-blown microfibers, and their webs. Impedance tube method is utilized to measure the sound absorption coefficients of mono and multiple layers of the webs and compared those with melt-blown microfiber
materials in the function of fabric aerial weight. The test results showed that the sound absorption coefficients of nanofiber layers were superior that of microfiber fabrics in the frequency range below 1000 Hz. However, hybrid composition with nanofiber layer and micro fiber layer shows detrimental effect, thus lowering of absorption coefficient, especially in the 2000~4000 Hz region. Also, the sound absorption of nanofiber webs improved with numbers of layers.

1A1_0502_ ASSESSMENT OF THE FABRIC’S WEAR BY SOUND MEASUREMENTS ON SOLDIERS UNIFORMS

Floriane Leclinche — 2019-08-07

This study focuses on the evaluation of fabrics friction sound using two different approaches (instrumental and sensory) to analyze the influence of fabric wear on friction sounds. For this purpose, four fabrics were selected and have undergone multiple washes (up to 50). A specific device reproducing the human arm motion is used to produce and record the fabric friction sounds. From these recordings, some acoustic parameters like the total noise level can be determined. Meanwhile, a sensory panel dedicated to hearing assessed the friction sounds by several attributes. This paper identifies the significant correlations between acoustic, mechanical and sensory properties.

1A2_0655_ THERMAL COMFORT PHYSIOLOGICAL EVALUATION: WHICH SENSORS FOR THE MOST ACCURATE ASSESSMENT?

Ada Ferri — 2019-08-07

In the field of thermal comfort of garments, the importance of the small air gap between skin and garment, called microclimate, is recognized by predictive models and experimental works. However, accurate measurements of microclimate is complex because its volume is small and variable. Moreover, due to body movement, involuntary contact between sensors and skin/garment strongly affects the measurement. In this work, a wearable device designed for measuring microclimate and skin temperature and humidity is presented and validated through tests in a controlled climatic chamber.

1A3_0143_ NEW WRINKLING MEASUREMENT METHOD OVER TIME BASED ON IMAGE PROCESSING

Charles Lanceron — 2019-08-13

Wrinkling is often considered to be an undesirable visual feature on a garment. To answer the need for a realistic wrinkling measurement method over time, a new method based on image processing was designed. Wrinkled fabrics are scanned over time in a step-by-step manner over two hours. Every wrinkled fabric scan is compared to the flat sample scan using a profile line technique. The resulting curves are analyzed by the mean of a successful regression model. To illustrate the benefits of the proposed method, the influence of the weave pattern on wrinkling is presented.

1A4_0165_ THE ROLE OF FIBER MOISTURE MANAGEMENT AND SURFACE PROPERTIES IN BACTERIAL GROWTH AND ODOR DEVELOPMENT ON TEXTILES

Mohammed Abu Rous — 2019-08-13

The aim of this research was to investigate the role of fiber hygroscopic properties in favoring or rather reducing the growth of bacterial types known to be responsible for malodor on human body surface or on the used textiles. Most of odor-generating bacteria require water activity higher than 0.90, i.e. are sensitive to moisture content. In this study, textile surfaces made of cellulosic fibers such as the wood-based fiber lyocell as well as with the non-absorbing polyester were compared. Bacterial growth under different moisture contents was measured by applying bacterial strains of defined number of bacterial colony forming units (CFU) on the textile surface and assessing the count after 24 hours. The tested bacterial types showed lower growth on cellulosic materials than on the non-absorbing polyester. Odor development on the same textile types was investigated. Test persons sweated on textiles under defined conditions, with different fiber types on left and right body sides. The fabrics were incubated for several hours and the odor intensity and hedonics were evaluated by trained personal according to the evaluation scale of VDI3882. High variation within odor degrees among individuals results in high standard deviation of the average degree. The trend is higher odor development on polyester fabrics compared to cellulosics. This trend becomes more conceivable when left-right comparison is made for each participant. Here, the synthetic side showed higher odor development, in terms of intensity as well as in terms of hedonics.

1B1_0467_ A NEW APPROACH FOR FABRİC SENSORY PERFORMANCE EVALUATİON

Ning Pan — 2019-08-13

This paper introduces a novel approach for evaluating fabric sensory responses. First, the problems in existing techniques are analyzed, and a more scientific scheme based on the computer pattern recognition technique is introduced and the details of the measurement, data processing and calculation of the ultimate parameters are discussed. The actual prototype of the instrument and some applications are then provided. Finally, it is shown that the technique can also be utilized to evaluate some visual attributes such as drape and wrinkle recovery.

1B2_0245_ ANTHROPOMETRIC SIZING AND LOWER LIMB MOVEMENT RANGE DURING CLIMBING POSITION

Inga Dāboliņa — 2019-08-13

The research focuses on studies of biomechanical parameters of lower limbs for the insight regarding movement character and changes of involved body parts. The aim is to quantify changes of leg measures during climbing posture. 150 workers were scanned using 3D anthropometrical scanner Vitus Smart XXL® in standard stand and step-up posture [1]. Primary body characteristics for trouser size definition [2] served for grouping the participants into size groups. The ability of representatives of a one-body-height group to take the dynamic posture was analyzed. Sets of measures were obtained for the analysis of changes in particular parts of lower limbs.

1B3_0239_ CHARACTERIZATION AND THERMOGRAPHIC ANALYSIS OF FIR EMITTING CERAMIC NANOPARTICLE EMBEDDED FILMS

Ashik MD Faisal — 2019-08-13

Far-infrared (FIR) ray emitting textiles are claimed to be functional textiles improving health and well-being. FIR ray emitting textiles are derived from traditional fibers by incorporation of ceramic nanofillers with appropriate electromagnetic absorption and emission properties. The purpose of this research is to analyze the thermographic effects of ceramic nanofiller based polyurethane films and characterize their physical properties. Water-based polyurethane binder was separately incorporated with Aluminum Oxide, Silicon Dioxide, Titanium Dioxide, and Silicon Carbide to make a thin layer of film by Sonication technique. Different intense of IR-emissive layer was found with different concentration of ceramic nanofiller into the films. Reflection and transmission at the FIR range were measured with an integrating sphere by Fourier-transform infrared spectrometer. Thermal properties of films were investigated by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The results showed that the thermophysical properties are strongly dependent on the nature of nanofillers. In addition, physical properties like tensile strength and contact angle were also measured to evaluate the feasibility of the films towards thermal comfort.

2A1_0085_ RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTHING PRESSURE AND SKIN TEMPERATURE: SUPPORT KNEE-HIGH SOCKS

Tamaki Mitsuno — 2019-08-13

An online questionnaire among 1425 female Japanese consumers revealed that knee-high socks were the most desirable product for swelling body parts. We measured clothing pressure using a hydrostatic-pressure balanced method, while subjects wore support knee-high socks (SKSs) in a standing position. Before-after skin temperature of the dorsal lower legs and feet were measured using a thermo-tracer while subjects wore SKSs for 4 hours. The distribution of clothing pressure in a vertical position, with low clothing pressure on the inside part of the leg and high clothing pressure on the arch of the foot, promoted blood circulation.

2A2_0166_ ASSESSMENT OF FABRIC COMFORT BASED ON FINGER SENSITIVITY

Atiyyah Binti Haji Musa — 2019-08-13

Assessment of fabric tactile comfort by humans is subjected to many influencing factors including finger sensitivity of the assessors. In previous research, a group of panel members with finger sensitivity between 0.60 to 1.80 mm discrimination performance were selected to perform a fabric handle measurement. A tool called JVP Domes was employed for the measurement of finger sensitivity. In this work, we aim to analyze the influence of the range of finger sensitivity towards the fabric handle assessment. Three groups of assessors based on their finger sensitivity were formed i.e. 0.60-1.00, 1.01-1.20, and 1.21-1.50 mm, in order to investigate the consistency of the results for the measurement of smoothness, softness and warmth attributes. No significant differences were found between the scores from the three groups. This proves that sensitivity up to 1.50 mm is acceptable for assessors. We propose that the selection of panel members based on finger sensitivity is the best way to select people for tactile related assessment, as opposed to other methods.

2A3_0265_ SUPPRESSION EFFECT OF WEAK-ACIDIC POLYESTER ON BODY ODOR

Chiyomi Mizutani — 2019-08-13

Body odor is promoted by perspiration as sebum and other secretory substances in sweat are decomposed into odorous substances by residence bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus on the skin surface. Staphylococcus aureus grows when the skin pH increases above 5.5 and stimulates skin, resulting the generation of strong body odor and causing skin itching and/or reddening. In order to suppress the growth of Staphylococcus aureus on the skin, weak-acid polyester was prepared by introducing acid groups onto polyester fabric and evaluated its antibacterial /deodorant effect on human subjects. The results confirmed that the growth of Staphylococcus aureus on the skin was suppressed and in consequence less body odor was generated after perspiration.

2a4_0278_ ABSORPTION OF PHOTONIC CRYSTAL TEXTILE IN THE MID INFRARED FOR THERMOREGULATION

S. Assaf — 2019-08-13

2B1_0234_ A NEW APPROACH FOR ASSESSMENT OF POLYPROPYLENE FIBER USAGE IN SPORTSWEAR

E. Babahk — 2019-08-13

In this study, %100 polypropylene, polyester and cotton knitted fabric samples with various knit types were produced and a large group of heat and mass transfer properties of the samples were instrumentally measured with relevant standards. The results were used to assess the suitability of polypropylene fiber usage in sportswear with comparing to polyester and cotton; for this purpose a totally new approach based on multi-axial graph has been applied. This method provided an easy way of thermal comfort assessment of fabrics considering the contribution of all measured parameters and giving mathematical statements of thermal comfort.

2B2_0585_ DEVELOPMENT OF A KINEMATIC HUMAN MODEL FOR CLOTHING DESIGN / SIMULATION

Doudou Zhang — 2019-08-13

In recent years, there have been significant efforts directed towards the 3D product development of clothing on virtual human models. However, developers legitimately criticize that static human models are not suitable for the construction of sports, medical, and protective clothing. A garment that fits a static shape may be very uncomfortable while performing daily tasks including walking, sitting, or reaching. Without a realistic body shape and natural human postures, it is difficult to create properly fitting apparel. To improve wearing comfort and shorten development times, clothing must be designed based on specific body postures. Moreover, innovative knowledge about the interaction between body and garment during movement must be considered.

2B3_0609_ COMPRESSION FATIGUE BEHAVIOUR OF A BIOMIMETIC 3D TEXTILE STRUCTURE FOR PRESSURE ULCERS PREVENTION

Pedro Silva — 2019-08-13

The objective of the present research study is the development of a multifunctional textile structure to prevent the appearance of pressure ulcers. The concept of the overall structure was inspired by plant structures morphology, resulting in a 3D patchwork knitted fabric, specially designed according to the necessities of body segments, for a mattress overlay. To simulate the pressure that causes the occurrence of bedsores, compression tests were performed allowing the analysis of strain/stress behaviour, energy absorption and thickness variation under load. The results show the suitable behaviour of the textile structure developed to prevent pressure ulcers.

2B4_0680_ SURFACE PROFILE AND FRICTIONAL PROPERTIES OF DENIM FABRICS

Nazli Uren — 2019-08-13

Several parameters might contribute to the tactile comfort of a fabric in a different way and rate, therefore which parameter would stand out will be mostly determined by fabric type and end use. In this study, the effect of weaving parameters and three different washing processes on surface characteristics of denim fabrics was investigated. Accordingly, several surface profile parameters and fabric-to-skin friction coefficients of 24 custom production and 15 commercial denim fabrics were determined by objective measurements, meanwhile fabric surfaces were investigated by photomicrographs.

3A1_0366_ THE FINITE-ELEMENT MODELLING OF COMPRESSION SPORTSWEAR

Igor N. Tyurin — 2019-08-13

3A2_0440_ THERMAL COMFORT OF TEXTILES FOR TENT APPLICATION

Henk Gooijer — 2019-08-13

The aim was to establish the influence of the tent fabric properties on the indoor tent climate. The first step was to thoroughly characterize a series of representative tent fabrics. The chosen route to quantify the influence of the tent fabric on comfort was first to establish the definition of thermal comfort and the related physical parameters. Comfort is connected to thermal comfort and the occurrence of condensation at the tent surface. Secondly, models for the influence of the fabric properties on those physical parameters were set-up. Finally the results of the fabric characterization were included in the model.

3A3_0666_ PORTUGUESE FIREFIGHTERS’ PERCEPTIONS CONCERNING PROTECTIVE GLOVES

Anna Sophia Piacenza Moraes — 2019-08-13

In firefighting, gloves continue to be an important item of personal protective equipment and must provide adequate hand protection while allowing firefighters to conduct operations. However, studies have shown that enhanced thermal protection entails greater bulkiness, leading to discomfort and limited dexterity, and sizing systems may not be the most appropriate. An ongoing study on firefighters’ personal protective equipment in Portugal has found similar results. This paper presents some of the participants’ perceptions regarding their gloves, including finger length, difficulty in putting on and removing when gloves are wet, dexterity issues, and styles/sizes available in the brigade.

3A4_0705_ 3D CAD METHOD FOR SMART GARMENTS FIT PREDICTION

Rachel Boldt — 2019-08-13

In the scope of textile products categorized as "smart wearables," the perfect fit to the user's body is of central importance. The adjustment provides means for the full operation of the electronic system integrated with clothing. The main objective of this paper is to present the methodological path that constituted the redesign of the flat patterns of a smart t-shirt for vital monitoring, by comparing the process and benefits between a traditional method and 3d-2d Cad process to build the basic pattern blocks.

P025_0050_ The influence of assemblies on the performance of knitted materials intended for sportswear

Gerda Mikalauskaitė — 2019-09-04

Assuring the comfort of wearer's body is one of the most important functions required to sportswear products. Knitted fabrics should demonstrate excellent elasticity as well as feature with perfect hand ensuring the softness and smoothness for the inner garment surface.The aim of this research was to evaluate the influence of assemblies on the hand property of knitted fabrics.

P026_0425_ Results of the SHAPE project

Benny Malengier — 2019-09-04

The overall objective of SHAPE project (Adapted Performance Sportswear) is to develop comfortable and well-fitted sportswear for athletes whose body shapes differ from the average population. Body measurements of professional cyclists and rowers were extracted from 3D scans and compared with average Belgian population. Variation of body measurements and skin-sportswear interface pressure upon rowing and cycling postures was additionally investigated. Significant differences were found between rowers and average Belgian males. Rowing and cycling postures had significant influence on most body measurements and pressure. Fit of prototypes developed based on SHAPE-body sizing charts was positively validated by male rowers. Large number of cyclists critically evaluated their present outfit including fit and comfort. Two prototypes were designed according to individual needs of Gsport cyclists and their functionality, comfort and fit were positively evaluated.

P028_0659_ A cell-based smoothed discrete shear gap using triangular elements for free vibration analyses of plain-woven fabric

Q.T. Nguyen — 2019-09-04

A cell-based smoothed discrete shear gap method for free vibration analysis of plain-woven fabric is formulated by incorporating the cell-based strain smoothing technique with the discrete shear gap method using three-node triangular Reissner–Mindlin plate element. In this numerical work, the domain of each element will be sub-divided into three triangle domains by connecting the three field nodes to the central point of the element. Then the strain smoothing technique is used to evaluate the curvature strains on these sub-domains. To overcome the shear locking, the discrete shear gap method is applied The fabric material was assumed as an orthotropic material, and its mechanical properties was measured using the Kawabata’s evaluation system for fabric (KES-FB). The numerical result using formulated plate element is, therefore, free of shear locking, good accuracy, and conditionally stable but effective performance in terms of CPU time compared to the other plate elements in finite-element methods.

2A1_0069_ DEVELOPMENT OF TRADITIONAL CHINESE DRUG LOADED HYDROGEL SYSTEM WITH DUAL RESPONSIVENESS (PH AND TEMPERATURE) FOR TEXTILE BASED TRANSDERMAL THERAPY

Patrick Chi-leung Hui — 2019-08-13

Thermoresponsive polymer pluronic F-127 was combined with pH-responsive polymers N,N,Ntrimethyl chitosan and polyethylene glycolated hyaluronic acid to develop dual responsive (pH/temperature) hydrogel. Gallic acid, which is the principal component of traditional Chinese drug Cortex Moutan, was loaded into this hydrogel, and various morphology and physico-chemical characterizations along with drug release property of the hydrogels were studied to validate its applicability and efficiency in textile based transdermal therapy for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Rheology and tube inversion method were performed to confirm thermoresponsive property of the hydrogel and pH -responsiveness of hydrogel was observed by changing pH of external media.

2A3_0074_ IMPORTANCE OF MEDICAL TEXTILES AND DATA VISUALIZATION IN REDUCING MATERNAL AND CHILD MORTALITY

Shaghayegh R. Arangdad — 2019-08-13

The United Nations Sustainable Development Goal 3 includes reducing maternal and child mortality by 50% by 2030. Leading global public health experts have begun to realize the importance of data visualization for understanding the causes of death and best practices in reducing mortality. Modern textiles are receiving increasing attention in healthcare improvement. The use of textiles for preventing injury including infections, diseases spread by insects, water-borne parasites, and in treating many medical conditions is constantly expanding in healthcare. Innovation in medical textiles and many other forms of textiles is playing a major role in reducing mortality in the world.

2A4_0300_ DEVELOPMENT OF A BIOCOMPATIBLE AND BIORESORBABLE YARN FOR TEXTILE SCAFFOLD: EVOLUTION OF MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF PLA/PCL FIBERS DURING IN VITRO DEGRADATION

Vivien Barral — 2019-08-13

In this work, bioabsorbable immiscible polymer blends of poly(D,L-lactide) (PLA) and polycaprolactone (PCL) were studied in a large range of compositions, from PLA90PCL10 to PLA50PCL50 per 10% slice in order to evaluate the spinnability of these blends. The first step was a twin screw extrusion followed by a melt spinning step in order to obtain the multifilament. The morphologies of the multifilaments were investigated by extracting PCL with acetic acid. Then multifilaments were immersed in a DMEM media at 50°C during 35 days and their mechanical properties were tested in order to understand the relation between the morphology and the degradation process.

2B1_0545_ NOVEL TYPE OF ADULT DIAPER FROM NATURAL FIBERS

Hireni Mankodi — 2019-08-13

The adult diaper are having some functional problems based on which the work has been focused in direction to make diapers more compact and using natural fiber like banana and hemp to enhance the comfort properties and making it eco friendly. The different combinations of banana and hemp fiber taken as core and treated with antimicrobial natural finish like neem. The performance has been checked for its functional and comfort properties. The result found satisfactory, the modification has been done to improve the performance. The novel idea related to smart diaper to sense wetting by incorporating conductive wire has been suggested.

2B2_0454_ SMART MEDICAL TEXTILES FOR WIRELESS HEALTH MONITORING

Marcin Meyer — 2019-08-13

2B3_0472_ NANOSCIENCE APPROACH TO MIMIC WOOL FIBRE FOR STAIN PROOF TEXTILE

Ronny Brünler — 2019-08-13

2B4_0290_ MECHANISMS AND KINETICS OF SILVER NANOPARTICLE RELEASE FROM POLYVINYL ALCOHOL/KERATIN/CHITOSAN ELECTROSPUN NANOFIBROUS SCAFFOLD

Mohammad Tajul Islam — 2019-08-13

3A1_0514_ 3D TEXTILE IMPLANTS FOR BONE REGENERATION FROM SILK GENERATED BY ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING

Michael Wöltje — 2019-08-13

In order to overcome the limited source of autologous bone graft substitutes for filling bone defects, various experimental approaches have been investigated. The combination of silk and ceramic materials in the the form of membranes or sponges has proven to be promising. For this reason, continuous filaments were spun from native silk solution and manufactured into three-dimensional textile implants using an additive manufacturing process. Cell culture analyses showed good biocompatibility of the implants and an induction of bone differentiation, thus demonstrating the high potential for ceramic functionalized textile silk implants.

3A2_0549_ ACHIEVEMENTS AND LIMITS ON THE OBTAINING OF TEXTILE FABRICS FOR THERAPY OF BURN WOUNDS WITH LARGE SURFACE

V.C. Macarel — 2019-08-13

Paper carries out the results obtained up to now by performing a blouse and trousers worn by the patient with burn wounds. Each garment is composed by three layers, the outer layer, the next is an intermediate layer and the last is the inner layer. The inner layer is a non-woven structure where a film of a mixture of cellulose and keratin is attached. The inner layer absorbs the exudate from the wound and acts as a dressing; the bicompatibility and in vivo tests are presented. The outer layer is a woven fabric made by 100% cotton.

3A3_0623_ BUTYRIC-ACETIC CHITIN COPOLYESTER (BAC) – THE JOURNEY FROM CHITIN TO DRESSING MATERIAL ENHANCING WOUND HEALING

Zbigniew Draczyński — 2019-08-13

The paper presents a method of chitin chemical modification leading to the butyric-acetic chitin copolyester (BAC) with properties that predispose it to applications as a wound-healing dressing. The paper shows the possibility of using chitins of various origins for the production of ester derivatives. The possibility of using chitin obtained from honeybees, krill and crab has been shown. The BAC was obtained by esterification of chitin with a mixture of butyric and acetic anhydrides. A method for producing fibers and flat porous materials for medical applications from this polymer is presented. The results of biological tests of the produced BAC structures are also shown.

3A4_0276_ FROM 3D SCAN TO BODY PRESSURE OF COMPRESSION GARMENTS

Ziyuan Li — 2019-08-13

Human bodies come under loads in sports. For safety or other purposes, athletes wear compression garments to help avoid wrong postures or movement. We assessed anthropometrics of elite rowers, and found significant differences with the general population, indicating compression garments would behave differently for the athletes. By combining 3D scanning technique and FEM modelling software, we were able to predict compression garment performance on part of the athlete bodies . Abaqus Explicit solver was applied to simulate movement of athletes actually putting on a compression garment, and to track stress distribution during the process.

P045_0046_ Study of clinical effectiveness of pressure-relieving garment

Patrick Chi-leung Hui — 2019-09-05

P046_0412_ Compressive orthopaedic supports for the elderly

Ginta Laureckienė — 2019-09-05

Europe is the oldest continent in terms of population age. Due to rapid ageing and decreased physical activity of society, particular attention should be paid to encourage physical activity. Due to ageing and reduced activity emergent arthralgia and coordination disorders are a common cause of further lower activity. Development of orthopaedic supports with optimal variable compression in combining with the muscle strength and aerobic endurance training is a cost-effective tool for healthy ageing. The orthopaedic support is defined as a corrective or orthopaedic item intended to grip or support any movable part of the body in the correct position and allows movement of that body part. Obtained results clearly demonstrate that stress-strain relaxation phenomenon must be taken into account, especially in designing of orthopaedic supports for the elderly.

P047_0442_ Study of sanitary napkin(s) properties commercially available in India

Manisha Yadav — 2019-09-05

According to some estimates, only 12% women in India use sanitary napkins today, mainly because of lack of affordability, accessibility, awareness and disposability. The Ministry of Health and Family welfare is promoting menstrual hygiene among adolescent girls in a big way, to improve the health of Indian girls and women. Currently, the sanitary napkin market is dominated by large multinational companies. In the last few years, some local companies as well as several NGOs have started manufacture and sale/distribution of sanitary napkins in the country. Therefore, the market is flooded with various types of sanitary napkins.
In a sanitary napkin, absorbent layer is the main component which is made from a natural cellulosic material (pulp). Most of the premium quality sanitary napkins also contain synthetic super absorbent polymer (SAP) along with pulp in the absorbent core. However, very less studies are carried out on testing the absorbency of sanitary napkins. Therefore, in current study the absorbency of core layer is tested for different types of sanitary napkins.

P048_0546_ Controlled drug delivery system of natural/synthetic silica structures to the dermis

V. Rotaru — 2019-09-05

The paper is the first communication on an exploratory study of the use of three compounds: bentonite, clinoptilolite and SBA-15 (Santa Barbara Amorphous). The last component, SBA-15, is the cutting-edge result of a chemical synthesis with perspectives for use in the biochemical field, but also as a new controlled delivery system grafted on fibrous textile component for the release a drug from a textile to the dermis. Components are characterized in terms of the specific surface area (m2/g), pore size and sorption performance in relation to two antibacterial agents: silver sulfadiazine (4-amino-N- (pyrimidinyl) benzenesulfonamide, CAS no. 68-35-9) and silver nanoparticles obtained by reduction from an inorganic salt (AgNO3). Antibacterial agents are used in applications on burn wounds of large surface area and antibacterial bedding fabrics on a cellulosic structure. Subsequently the porous agent which presented maximum efficacy, as adsorption and drug delivery is grafted onto a 100% cotton knitted structure (interlock structure with yarns of Nm = 70/1 fineness). The experiments on kinetics of drug release from textile to solution are made at 37°C and pH = 5.5 according to standard of ISO 105-E04-2008E. The study determines the type of drug sorption isotherm, the zeolite absorption kinetics, the silver sulfadiazine molecular sizes and the in vitro drug delivery kinetics. As well, in the paper one presented the advantages and drawbacks of the delivery system.

P049_0591_ Antibacterial property of chitosan/acrylic laminate pad

Sireerat Charuchinda — 2019-09-05

Skin injury from burns is an awful condition that leads to an increase of fluid loss, hypothermia, scarring and infections. Despite advances in therapy, infections remain a major cause of morbidity and mortality in burn patients. In recent years, wound dressing has developed according to the pathogenesis of different wound. Different types of wound dressing including xerogels, charcoal cloth, alginates, chitosan, and hydrogels have been introduced for this purpose through the last decades. Recently, many researchers have focused on the use of biological materials like chitin and chitosan. Chitosan is a versatile biopolymer rendering it a variety of applications including wound dressing film. However, in a form of film, chitosan possesses poor mechanical properties including tear strength and handle ability. For this reason, chitosan/acrylic laminate pad was prepared, aiming at the wound dressing pad with antibacterial performance. In this work, we prepared chitosan/acrylic laminate pad using a casting method. Chitosan solution was prepared by dissolving chitosan 1% (w/v) in 1% (v/v) acetic acid solution. Then, chitosan solution was poured onto a precast acrylic film (prepared from acrylic emulsion) and allowed to completely dry at room temperature for a couple of days to achieve transparent and flexible laminate film. This film exhibited fast water absorption without loss of mechanical properties. Based on this property, the chitosan/acrylic laminate film is potential for wound dressing application. Antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538P) of samples was carried out by disk diffusion method on an agar plate. Diameter of the zone of inhibition was measured as per the standard test procedure. The antibacterial activity of the chitosan/acrylic laminate film against S. aureus was achieved as expected.

P050_0599_ Influence of textile care processes on the mechanical properties of the woven fabric

Snjezana Brnada — 2019-09-05

This research was carried out within the project Hospital Protective Textiles – HPROTEX with the goal of systematic research aimed at addressing the problem of textile dust, potential transmission of infectious agents and causers of sophisticated medical device malfunctions in the hospital environment.
In this paper the influence of the wash cycles on the mechanical characteristics of woven fabric for multiple use, of different construction and structural characteristics has been investigated. Fabric samples in different weaves and different density of warp and weft were subjected to a number of washing cycles after which their tensile properties were tested.
The results of the study have shown that the tensile modules of woven fabrics change with increasing number of washing cycles. The influence of weave and woven fabric density, ie weave and firmness factor, on tensile stiffness of the fabric subjected to the number of washing cycles is also evident.

P052_0652_ Modification of chitosan fibers by organic acids vapors

Dominik Sikorski — 2019-09-05

2A1_0579_ ELECTROSPUN NANOFIBERS FOR SKIN-CONTACT APPLICATIONS

Ozlem Ipek Kalaoglu-Altan — 2019-08-13

The use of nanofibers is expanding from academic into industry as these lightweight and highly porous materials are advantageous in many application areas. The main objectives of this roject is to reveal the potential of the bioeconomy in Europe, to decrease the use of fossil-based products, lead to greener and more environmentally friendly growth by fighting against climate change. For this purpose, nonwovens are prepared from bio-based polymers using solution electrospinning method for cosmetics and wound-care applications.

2A2_0269_ ELECTRIC CONDUCTIVITY OF SILVER NANOPARTICLE DOPED CARBON NANOFIBRES MEASURED BY CURRENT-SENSITIVE ATOMIC FORCE MICROSCOPY

Wael Ali — 2019-08-13

2A3_0127_ GOING FROM POLYMER TO APPLICATION: SOLVENT ELECTROSPINNING OF OPTICAL NANOFIBROUS SENSORS

Ella Schoolaert — 2019-08-13

Optical nanofibrous sensors show potential in many application areas, including biomedicine, as they provide ultra-sensitivity combined with versatility, flexibility and user-friendliness. In our work stimuli-sensitive dyes are incorporated in a polymeric nanofibrous matrix by the process of solvent electrospinning. An important challenge that is tackled here is dye-immobilization as to design a stable sensor. In addition, an ecological friendly production process is aimed for resulting in the use of “green” solvents such as water and ethanol. However, the use of hydrophilic polymers poses some challenges with regard to the solvent electrospinning process, which are addressed in this work as well.

2A4_0450_ DESIGN OF PATTERNED POLYURETHANE SCAFFOLDS FOR TISSUE ENGINEERING APPLICATIONS

Neda Shah Hosseini — 2019-08-13

The fibrous scaffold production with desired structure plays an important role in multidisciplinary field of tissue engineering. Electrospinning is popular approach for creating nanofibrous substrates in which the filaments resembling the natural extra cellular matrix (ECM) can provide topographical cues to cells directing their growth. One of the major challenges in electrospinning is tailoring the spatial organization of the filaments. To overcome this challenge, a hybrid static collector was utilized that enabled us to form distinct filament organizations on a single substrate. The effect of the filament organization on cellular growth was studied. The engineered scaffolds are promising candidates for fabrication interfaces between various tissues.

2B1_0651_ CAPILLARY NUMBER AND FIBER ORIENTATION DEPENDENT WICKING PATTERN IN ELECTROSPUN MEMBRANES

Robert Fischer — 2019-08-13

Vertical wicking from an unlimited reservoir is investigated for electrospun ethylene vinyl alcohol membranes with varying fiber orientations. Neutron radiography is applied to create time-resolved maps of the moisture distribution during wicking. A transition at a critical capillary number from stable water front displacement to unsaturated capillary fingering is observed. While the wicking behavior appears to show little dependence on the fiber orientation during stable displacement, differences can be observed in terms of maximum height and finger shape during the later uptake phase with capillary fingering.

2B2_0721_ FUNCTIONALIZATION OF ELECTROSPUN NANOWEB USING ETHIOPIAN ENDEMIC PLANT

Yalewlet Mersha — 2019-08-13

The aim of our work is to develop a functionalized patch for wound dressing application using natural and endemic plant extract from Ethiopia. Acokanthera schimperi (Apocynaceae) "Yemerz Enchet" is one an Ethiopian based plant in which its extract is used for treatment of chronic wounds by the traditional doctors.[1] Therefore, it has been selected to be used in this study. Different Hydroalcoholic extracts of medicinal plant have been tested and the more efficient one has been selected for the following studies.
As it is well known, electrospun nanofibers patches are an ideal candidate which satisfies the properties of efficient wound healing applications such as mimicking extracellular matrix structure. Moreover, an efficient bacterial barrier, an appropriate water vapor transmission rate and provision of adequate gaseous exchange is also provided by such kind of patches.[2]
The aim of this presentation is unrolled along the different steps that have been followed to functionalized the nano-filament patches with the selected plant "Yemerz Enchet". The challenge to incorporate "Yemerz Enchet" extract into the polymeric nanoweb is also discussed.
The polymer that has been chosen, regarding the literature recommendation is the PCL. The production parameters have been selected and adapted from literature issues thank to different trials.
Uniform and bead free nanofibrous mats loaded with 1,2 and 3% extract were produced. The fabricated nanofibrous is characterized using SEM and FTIR in order to characterize the modification that occurs during the electro-spun process. FTIR analysis indicates that the chemical nature of extract and polymer polymer are not affected by the electrospinning process.
The biologic test, that is currently running, will characterize the anti-bacterial properties of the selected extracts and of the final products.

2B3_0728_ ELECTROSPUN KERATIN/POLY(BUTYLENE SUCCINATE) MATS FOR WOUND HEALING AND DRUG DELIVERY APPLICATIONS

Annalisa Aluigi — 2019-08-13

Regenerated wool keratin is a promising natural material for wound dressing. In the present study, keratin extracted from wool was blended with poly(butylene succinate) in 1,1,1,3,3,3-hexafluoro-2-propanol (blending ratio 50/50) and electrospun into nanofibrous mats. Compared to the pure poly(butylene succinate) nanofibres, the keratin based ones showed lower diameters, lower mechanical properties but an increased biodegradability, a delayed diclofenac release and increased bioactivity.

2B4_0505_ ELECTROSPINNING OF SILICA NANOFIBERS WITHOUT CARRIER POLYMER FOR ADVANCED ENGINEERING APPLICATIONS

Eva Loccufier — 2019-08-13

Nanofibrous materials produced via electrospinning are characterized by a high porosity, large specific surface area, and high pore interconnectivity and, therefore, show potential for, e.g., separation and filtration. The development of more inert nanofibers with higher thermal and chemical resistance extends the application field. Silica nanofibrous membranes produced by direct electrospinning of a sol–gel solution without a sacrificing carrier meet these challenging demands. A combination of hydrolysis and condensation reactions of the tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) precursor, results in dense silica nanofibers with superior mechanical properties, without a rough and uneven surface, allowing the use in advanced engineering applications.

P029_0066_ Silicon nanofibers used as anode materials for lithium ion batteries

Jie Shan — 2019-09-04

P033_0566_ Formation of nanofibres using PVA/CS solutions via electrospinning technique

Jurgita Šateikė — 2019-09-04

Nanofibres were electrospun from bicomponent poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) and modified cationic starch (CS) mixed solutions PVA/CS with different mass ratio (75/25, 50/50, 35/65) at total concentration 12 wt% for all polymer compositions. Electrospinning technique using rotating electrode with tines was used in this paper due to obtain better results in previously described work[1]. In this work the effect of prepared polymer solution compositions on the structure and morphology of nanofibers was investigated. Moreover, pure PVA was used with the condition that the results can be compared with bicomponent PVA/CS solutions. Analyzing the structure and morphology of formed nanofibers webs it was noticed that lower diameter was formed from the PVA/CS with mass ratio 50/50 and 35/65. Also, it is possible to see that lower density of nanofibers web was formed compared with results of the pure PVA solution.

3B1_0150_ INVESTİGATİNG THE ENTREPRENEURİAL INNOVATİON ECOSYSTEM İN THE TEXTİLE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY

Samaneh Pourmojib — 2019-08-13

Recent studies show innovation is a driving force in the current U.S. textile and apparel market. In our review of current studies on Entrepreneurial Innovation, we find many weaknesses in measurements in both the types of responses and in the types of innovations. There are few entrepreneurial studies in the literature focused on the textile and apparel industries. We have used a constitutive approach to entrepreneurial innovation that postulates that the entrepreneurs and their environments are co-created. The Autio et al.[1] framework for entrepreneurial innovation and contexts is investigated by in-depth interviews of textile and apparel entrepreneurs.

3B2_0513_ DEVELOPMENT OF A PROCESS ANALYSIS METHOD TO DEVISE A LOCATION BASED TEXTILE PRODUCTION STRATEGY

Daniel Buecher — 2019-08-14

With rising costs in China and other Asian countries, textile and clothing manufacturing companies are looking at reshoring production to their original locations as an alternative. While there exists no standard approach to evaluate a production relocation decision. We developed a location decision model specific to the textile production processes based on factor rating method. The model identifies the most important factors and criterion to compare performance of concerned locations. Validity of the model is checked using a case analysis of weaving production process for countries of Germany, India and China.

3B3_0464_ PROCESS-ORIENTED VALUE CREATION IN TEXTILE NETWORKS FOR MASS CUSTOMIZATION IN SMES

Marco Barteld — 2019-08-14

PROFUND (Process-oriented value-added creation in textile networks for mass customization in SMEs), as part of the futureTEX project, tries to close the backlog and the research gap for mass customization in textile networks. Special attention will be paid to the co-creation processes for complex textiles, the envisioned small and medium enterprise (SME) cooperation approach, processes and data structures for knowledge transfer and a proof-of-concept of a complex product development platform. By using the envisioned PROFUND platform, the cycles for the new development of a product are significantly reduced. Thus, this paper contributes to research in the area of co-creation in SME networks and addresses a relevant problem in practice.

4A1_0099_ IMPROVEMENT IN DYEABILITY OF ULTRA-HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT POLYETHYLENE FIBER BY ELECTRON-BEAM GRAFTING

Satoko Okubayashi — 2019-08-14

4A2_0171_ IMPROVEMENT OF GLUCOSE OXIDASE ACTIVITY IMMOBILIZED ON POLYESTER NONWOVEN MEDIATED BY HYPER-BRANCHED DENDRIMERS

Mohammad Neaz Morshed — 2019-08-14

4A3_0296_ DEVELOPMENT OF SUSTAINABLE NON-FLUORINATED HYDROPHOBIC TREATMENTS FOR CONSERVATION OF TEXTILES

Giulia Mazzon — 2019-08-14

4A4_0336_ MICROENCAPSULATION OF DEET & CITRIODIOL OIL BY UTILIZING FUNCTIONAL BIOPOLYMERS: A SUSTAINABLE APPROACH FOR MULTIFUNCTIONAL TEXTILES

Nagender Singh — 2019-08-14

4B1_0333_ SUPERCRITICAL CARBON DIOXIDE: A SUSTAINABLE MEDIUM FOR TEXTILE DYEING AND FINISHING TO EXPAND THE POSSIBILITIES FOR A RESOURCE EFFICIENT PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGY

Veronica Malm — 2019-08-14

4B2_0508_ VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUND TREATMENT UNDER VISIBLE LIGHT BY USING A FUNCTONALIZED TEXTILE

Hayriye Gidik Vanderberck — 2019-08-14

The aim of this study is to develop functionalized textile substrates (PES – woven fabric) with TiO2 to photodegrade Volatile Organic Compounds (COVs) in order to improve the Indoor Air Quality (IAQ). As the visible light is more interesting for indoor applications, TiO2 was doped with silver (Ag) and the physical vapour deposition (PVD) was preferred for doping process. In addition to Ag-doped TiO2, cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) were desired as the incorporation vector between textile substrate and TiO2 in order to increase the binding effect by encapsulating TiO2 into the porous structure of CNC. The padding process was used for functionalization.

4B3_0574_ INFLUENCE OF THE LAYER-BY-LAYER MODIFICATION ONTO THERMAL PROPERTIES OF POLYPROPYLENE TEXTILES

Dawid Stawski — 2019-08-14

Polypropylene nonwovens were modified by using layer-by-layer method. This is quite new method, and relatively rarely used for textile products. As a modifiers were used different polyelectrolytes such as: PAA – poly(acrylic acid), PDMAEMA – poly(N,N-dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate), PAH - poly(allylamine hydrochloride). Polypropylene nonwovens modified by layer-by-layer method are the subject of controlled thermal degradation procedure. The whole sample weight consist mostly of the main object – weight of external, deposited layers is in comparison to main object, very small. That means that the thermogravimetric curve contains weight loss associated with thermal degradation of the polypropylene material. All changes in TG curve are connected with the influence of deposited layers onto the character of PP degradation.

5A1_0188_ BIOCIDAL FUNCTIONALIZATION OF PET WITH N-HALAMINE USING BY SUPERCRITICAL CARBON DIOXIDE

Mehmet Orhan — 2019-08-14

Our research focuses on surface modification and functionalization of textile materials using resource effective processes for smart and functional textiles. In this paper, we focus on functionalization of PET in supercritical carbon dioxide (ScCO2)
with antibacterial N-halamines. Integration of these compounds to polymeric chain increases stability, lowers toxicity, and enhances biocidal efficacy. N-halamines are good candidates since they can be incorporated into polymeric surfaces by various application methods and kill bacteria safely and efficiently by releasing positive halogens to oxidize intracellular components of the cells. The lost halogens can be recharged to restore biocidal capability. In this study, the N-halamine derivate was interpenetrated into PET using by scCO2 and then investigated the presence of the N-halamine on surface after treatment by Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and determined the antibacterial activities.

5A2_0637_ TEXTILE NOISE REDUCTION – REQUIREMENTS; OPTIONS AND RESTRICTIONS FOR INTERIOR DESIGN

Carolin Blaurock — 2019-08-14

Noise conditions in large office rooms have a negative impact on the people in the workplace, which results in stress, tension and decreased work performance. Also other large rooms like trade shows, hotel lobbies, conference centres or theatres have to deal with noise and the influence of sound on comfort and performance of human beings.
The aim of this work is to:
- examine how textile noise absorbers are working, that are already available on the market.
- inspect the fields of application within large rooms regarding restrictions and requirements
- demonstrate the possibilities of enhancing the efficiency of noise absorption within textiles

5A3_0375_ IMPROVEMENT OF BIOFILM FORMATION IN TRICKLE BED REACTORS BY SURFACE MODIFICATION OF DIFFERENT PACKING MATERIALS

P. Félix de Castro — 2019-08-14

The microorganism Cupriavidus necator has been chosen as a platform to biologically transform CO2 from gas streams into 3-hydroxypropionic acid (3-HP) inside trickle bed reactors. Usually, packing materials are used as a support for microorganisms’ adhesion and growth. To optimize the production of 3-HP this study aims to develop advanced packing materials with improved surface and sorption properties. Hardwood, polyurethane and polyisocyanurate-based foams, polypropylene pellets and polyester textiles have been studied as innovative packing materials, and compared with Raschig rings, as standard packing materials. An evaluation of contact angle, surface morphology, surface area, porosity and biofilm formation has been performed.

5A4_0481_ ENZYME IMMOBILIZATION ON TEXTILES BY INKJET PRINTING FOR ADVANCED APPLICATIONS

Tuser Biswas — 2019-08-14

P036_0134_ Investigation on influence of antimicrobial treatment on structural and physical properties of textile

Jolita Kriščiūnaitė — 2019-09-05

P037_0235_ Jute fabrics with phase change materials used for decoration

Marilés Bonet-Aracil — 2019-09-05

P039_0432_ Influence of singeing of linen/silk fabrics on pilling resistance

Indre Tautkute-Stankuviene — 2019-09-05

Nowadays the pilling resistance of fashion fabrics is very important and frequent problem during the cloths everyday wearing. Properties of woven fabrics are influenced by raw material compositions. In this research were used woven fabric from linen/silk yarns (70% linen/30% silk). It was looking for finishing methods and possibilities for improvement of this fabric property (pilling resistance). One of mechanical finishing method is singeing. Pilling tests of grey and dyed fabrics with and without singeing were done during the experiment. The influence of singeing on linen/silk fabric was not very significant and this kind of mechanical finishing can be used as additional mean for improving pilling resistance.

P040_0453_ Effect of the ultraviolet irradiation intensity on the self-cleaning performance and physical properties of cotton fabric surfaces treated with a TiO2 nanosol

Siriwan Kittinaovarat — 2019-09-05

The performance of cotton fabric surfaces after treatment with a TiO2 nanosol, and then cured by ultraviolet irradiation (UV) at three different intensities of 294, 622 and 938 mJ/cm2 for five cycles, were evaluated in terms of dye decomposition, coffee stain removal, antibacterial activity and physical properties. The titanium tetraisopropoxide (TTIP)-treated cotton fabric surfaces cured at different intensities of UV under exposure to UV lamp or Daylight 65 lamp had a similar ability to decompose the CIBACRON RED LS BHC reactive dye and coffee stain, although it was marginally better under the UV lamp. In addition, the higher UV irradiation intensity used in curing the TTIP-treated fabrics, the higher was the decomposition of reactive dye and removal of coffee stain. No significant antibacterial activity against S. aureus and E. coli, in terms of a growth-free clear zone, was noted for the untreated and treated fabrics, but the TTIP-treated cotton fabric cured at either 622 or 938 mJ/cm2 showed a slight antibacterial activity in terms of no E. coli growth occurred underneath the fabric. With respect to the physical properties, the TTIP-treated fabrics cured at higher UV irradiation intensities showed a much higher yellow discoloration and lower tensile strength retention. The X-ray diffractometry patterns of the TTIP-treated cotton fabric surfaces cured at different intensities of UV irradiation showed the peak of anatase phase of TiO2, while TiO2 nano particles were observed on their surface by scanning electron microscopy analysis.

P041_0614_ Mitigation of environmental impact caused by DWOR textile finishing chemicals studying their nontoxic alternatives

Meritxell Martí — 2019-09-05

P042_0653_ Modification of textile cotton products with crosslinked gelatin

Anna Bednarowicz — 2019-09-05

P043_0729_ Surface modification of polyester using chicken feather keratin hydrolysate to improve water absorbency and dye uptake

Granch Berhe Tseghai — 2019-09-05

PET fiber has an intrinsic low hydrophilic character and an inactive surface which make it uncomfortable for wearing purpose. Moreover, it is difficult to colour polyester fabric other than disperse dyes. Therefore, surface modification of PET is very important to improve its absorbency and bring the possibility to dye polyester with anionic dyes by altering its surface characteristics. This research was focused on surface modification of polyester using chicken feather which involves serine as the most abundant amino acid with hydroxyl groups. The treated polyester fabric using 20ml/L concentration of chicken feather extract showed improved water drop absorbency from 45 into 3 seconds and the reactive dye uptake by 36 folds from 0.15 to 5.37 K/S values.

4A1_0216_ 3D WARP INTERLOCK FABRIC STRUCTURE AS A NEW MATERIAL FOR WOMEN BALLISTIC PROTECTIVE VEST DESIGN

M. Abtew — 2019-08-14

Designing of women ballistic vest following their unique morphology for better ballistic protection and comfort are very imperative. For such purpose, accommodating the women bust shape without dart stitch using good “drapable” and ballistic material such as 3D warp interlock fabrics based on moulding principles has been proposed by different researchers. This paper presents the ballistic performances capabilities of 3D warp interlock fabrics made of high performance aramid fibres according to NIJ Level - III. The result revealed that the 3D warp interlocks fabric is the promising material to be applied in women ballistic protection vest not only its moulding capability but also its ballistic performance.

4A2_0704_ COMBATING INVASIVE MOSQUITOES BY TEXTILES AND PAINTS

Ana Marija Grancarić — 2019-08-14

Present paper discusses about mosquito repellents on textile and paints as one of attempt for protecting people against invasive mosquitoes which transmit arboviruses such as Zika, dengue and chikungunya virus, West Nile fever, Malaria, etc. For this purpose, the cotton fabric has been treated with selected repellents (Immortelle oil, Waterglass and Vibroactivated zeolites) for textiles and paints. For paints, Immortelle oil repellent was applied by coating special paper with paint layers between 80-160μm, and dry on the air. This paper will discuss the repellents efficacy, the changes of some textile structure parameters with fabric density, the amount of adsorbed repellents, by using gravimetric method, air permeability tester, pore dimensions Bubble Point measurements device and SEM image analyser.

4A3_0382_ EFFICACY OF SYNTHETIC PYRETHROIDS VS PLANT BASED INSECT REPELLENTS ON TEXTILES

Kiarash Arangdad — 2019-08-14

Vector borne diseases causes thousands of death annually where many of these diseases are preventable through protective measures. Insecticide treated fabric for use in garments are intended to reduce biting by mosquitos and possibly other insects. Treated fabrics with synthetic pyrethroids provide long term protection for users. For instance, permethrin treated fabrics have been developed and commercialized with +90% bite protection compared to an untreated control. On the other hand, spatial repellants containing plant based ingredient have gained popularity among consumers when they are perceived to be safe and environmentally sustainable. However, efficacy and longevity of these natural repellents is restricted due to the volatility of its components. In this presentation the concepts for new insect repellent fabrics, methods of application, value assessment (efficacy and durability), and test methods will be discussed.

4B1_0181_ SLICING CUTS ON TRIAXIAL FABRIC USING ROBOTICCONTROLLED RAZOR BLADE

Magdy El Messiry — 2019-08-14

The cut resistance is the most important property of the fabrics used for protective gloves, anti- stabbing and bulletproof fabrics. A newly designed apparatus for measuring the fabric cut resistance under various loading is developed. Several triaxial fabrics were examined, Polyester, Vectran and Kevlar-29, with different fabric weights. The effects of cutting load, speed and fiber type were explored. Analysis of the model of the cutting force of triaxial fabric was investigated. Cutting resistance force noticed 2.21N, 5.10N, and 8.23N for Polyester, Vectran and Kevlar-29 triaxial fabrics respectively. The Kevlar-29 triaxial fabric demonstrated to have the highest fabric cut resistance.

4B2_0121_ MODELING REINFORCEMENT STRUCTURES IN TEXTILE AIMED AT BIOMECHANICAL PURPOSES

Benny malengier — 2019-08-14

While sporting, muscles, tendons and the body in general come under extreme loads which may lead to wrong movements and injuries which impact the performance or lead to mandatory rest. As athletes often wear compression garments, we investigate how reinforcement structures such as elastic bands, yarns or fabric strips with a given pretension, or rigid structures can be added to compression garments to prevent incorrect sport movements. This paper discusses how an existing simulation tool (DySiFil) can be adapted to be able to extract supportive forces and pressures and validates the findings for the case of overextension of the fingers and the thumb.

4B3_0152_ MICROBIAL GROWTH IN THE NONWOVEN MATERIALS OF DUST-LOADED FILTERING FACEPIECE RESPIRATORS

K. Majchrzycka — 2019-08-14

The paper aims at understanding the effect of dust type and concentration in the filtering nonwovens used in the construction of FFRs on viability of microorganisms. The experiments were performed using melt-blown polypropylene nonwoven typically used in the construction of FFRs as a high efficiency filtering layer and two types of dust collected at the composting and cement plant. Deposition of dust was performed in dust chamber in conditions simulating average and high dust concentration at the workplace. The survival of microorganisms in dust-loaded nonwovens was determined using microbiological quantitative method and the distribution of biofilm formed on the samples was analysed with scanning electron microscopy.

4B4_0635_ TEXTILE METAMATERIALS

M. Michalak — 2019-08-14

Metamaterials are media whose properties result more from the distribution of elements than from the chemical composition. Their structural parts need to be smaller than the wavelength. This publication presents the results of the development of metamaterials based on a nonwoven fabric made of polypropylene and flax fibres and their blends. The structural elements were copper split ring resonators (SRR) with dimensions and position on the nonwoven fabric’s surface enabling the reaction to an electromagnetic wave with a frequency around 10 GHz. One- and multiple-layer metamaterials with SRR arrays, imitating the crystal lattice band were studied. The calculation results coincided with the experimental ones.

5A1_0310_ DEVELOPMENT OF COMFORTABLE MOTORCYCLIST GLOVES FROM RECYCLED PPTA

Hafsa Jamshaid — 2019-08-14

A motorcyclist is all the time prone to mechanical risks while riding. The aim of this research is to develop cost effective seamless functional/ protective knitted gloves for motorcyclists for winter season. Recycled PPTA, acrylic and cotton were used in different ratios for producing three different samples of gloves. Abrasion resistance test and thermophyscological comfort tests i.e thermal insulation, air permeability, and moisture management test were performed. All the developed protective gloves have good abrasion resistance and were thermally insulated. The best results were obtained for samples with 60% recycled PPTA and 40% acrylic. Usage of recycle material will be helpful for environmental protection.

5A2_0359_ BALLISTIC PERFORMANCE OF SOFT BODY ARMOUR: EFFECT OF PARTICLE SIZE OF SILICA IN SHEAR THICKENING FLUID AND STACKING SEQUENCE OF FABRICS

Mukesh Bajya — 2019-08-14

5A3_0360_ AUXETIC SELF-FOLDING KNITTED FABRICS FOR PROTECTIVE APPLICATION

Yanping Liu — 2019-08-14

Two types of purl stitches (V-shaped and Z-shaped) forming auxetic self-folding knitted structures were developed based on miura-ori pattern on a computerized flat knitting machine for impact protective applications. Three kinds of yarns including polyester multifilament, aramid and low-temperature melting polyester multifilament yarns (LTMY) were used. After heat treatment with an oven, the developed fabrics become semi-rigid flexible composite materials. The Poisson’s ratios, compression and bending properties were evaluated. The negative Poisson’s ratio of Z-shaped vertical folding fabric decreased as the amount of LTMY increases. The results of V-shaped fabrics are just the inverse as that of Z-shaped fabrics. LTMY increased the compression stress, energy absorption and bending rigidity.

P059_0089_ PILOT STUDY OF A SHEET PATTERN FOR A GAPLESS GENERIC FACEMASK AROUND A FEMALE OPENED MOUTH

Mika Morishima — 2019-11-19

P060_0112_ Development and test of new kinds of anti-vibration knitted hand protection

Livia Kokas Palicska — 2019-11-19

P061_0142_ EVALUATION OF 3D KNITTED FABRICS TO PROTECT AGAINST MECHANICAL RISK AND SUITABLE TO WEAR NEXT TO SKIN

Julija Krauledaitė — 2019-11-19

P062_0163_ APPLICATION OF KNITTED AND WOVEN PACKAGE IN THE ANTI-IMPACT VEST

Kinga Zawadzka — 2019-11-19

P063_0214_ POLYMERIC IMPREGNATION INFLUENCE ON DIFFUSE REFLECTION AS THE MAIN CHARACTERISTIC FOR DETERMINATION OF CAMOUFLAGE PROTECTION PROPERTIES OF MILITARY TEXTILES

Aleksandra Samolov — 2019-11-19

P064_0217_ VALIDATION ESTIMATION OF DIFFUSE REFLECTION METHOD FOR TEXTILE MATERIALS ANALYSIS

Aleksandra Samolov — 2019-11-19

Diffuse reflection as a feature of dyed coatings is important characteristic regarding camouflage protection analysis. In our laboratory practice, the need for diffuse reflection analysis of textile materials has appeared, recently. Therefore, astm e903-12 [1] method has been modified in order to be applicable for this type of materials. The measurements of diffuse reflection were conducted, in the military technical institute laboratory for textile, leather and shoes examination in belgrade, serbia, using the uv/vis/nir spectrophotometer uv 3600 from a japanese manufacturer shimadzu with an integrating sphere within wavelength area from 650 nm to 1000 nm. For the purpose of results analyses, uv probe programme package [2] was used. 10 measurements of spectralon (manufactured by labsphere®), which is used as a certified reflectance standard, were performed and obtained standard deviation was 0.07 %. Then control sample, a piece of a standard military cloth of serbian army, which has five color shades (light green, beige green, dark green, brown and black) was tested. Standard deviations were in range from 0.09% for black tone on 650 nm wavelength to 2.0% for light green tone on 1000 nm. The combine uncertainty for the method was ±2.0 %, which coincides with the above mentioned astm standard. In the end, comparative measurements of the same control sample for all five shades were performed in the “vinca” institute for nuclear sciences, department for physical chemistry, university of belgrade on lambda 35 perkin-elmer uv/vis/nir spectrophotometer. Moreover, the z score was calculated as well, and its values ranged from -0.71 to +0.71, which was satisfying regarding interlaboratory measurements rules. Overall results showed that this method is applicable for diffuse reflection measurements of textile materials.

P065_0295_ IMPACT OF WET TREATMENTS ON THE SHIELD EFFECT OF FUNCTIONAL INTERLINING FABRICS

Bosiljka Šaravanja — 2019-11-19

The paper discusses the influence of wet treatment on the shield effect of functional interlining fabrics. The polyamide fabrics metallized with copper is used as an electromagnetic shield against the radiation on frequencies of 0.9 GHz, 1.8 GHz, 2.1 GHz as well as 2.4 GHz. The material shielding characteristics was measured in Microwave laboratory using antennas and spectrum analyzer. The results showed that the use of wet treatment significantly reduces the shielding properties of the interlining fabrics.

P066_0320_ BIOACTIVE NONWOVENS WITH SUPERABSORBING POLYMERS FOR FILTERING FACEPIECE RESPIRATORS USED IN HEAVY-DUTY APPLICATIONS AT HIGH TEMPERATURES AND HUMIDITY

Katarzyna Majchrzycka — 2019-11-20

Within the present study the efficiency of filtering nonwovens with bioactive and sorption properties have been investigated. Two types of nonwovens with bioactive agents and superabsorbing polymers were manufactured using melt-blown technology from polypropylene along with pristine nonwoven serving as a control sample. The influence of additives on basic filtration properties (paraffin oil mist, sodium chloride penetration, pressure drop) were assessed. Moreover, their antimicrobial properties as well as water sorption capacity were determined to confirm their applicability as a multifunctional layer in the construction of filtering facepiece respirators.

P069_0541_ IMPACT OF STRUCTURAL FABRIC PARAMETERS ON PROTECTIVE THERMAL PROPERTIES OF FABRIC AND COMFORT

Ana Kiš — 2019-11-20

This paper explores the influence of structural and structural characteristics of woven fabric made from meta aramide yarns on their thermal properties and properties associated with comfort. The aim of the research is related to the objectives of the project that supports this study and publication of this paper, which is development of woven fabric with improved thermal protection properties, produced on conventional weaving machines and designed by various fabric structures on the front and the back of the woven fabric with the selection of high performance fibers.

P070_0571_ INFLUENCE OF SILANIZATION ON COPPER COATED NONWOVEN FABRIC AND THEIR ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY

Aravin Prince Periyasamy — 2019-11-20

A stabilized electromagnetic shielded (EMI) fabric was produced with a copper coating. For this, the Milife (nonwoven) was used, since it is a promising material for surface metallization which is composed of the dense net of monofilaments bonded by solid spots. For stabilization of copper deposition on the milife fabric, we treat with three different silanes. The surface morphology of the fabrics was studied and it confirms the enhanced stabilization. In this paper we describe only the electrical properties of nonwoven fabrics, the obtained results show that the copper coated fabrics were more stable and the lowest surface resistivity in the range of 3000-3400 Ω. It confirms that it belongs to shielding material and can be classified into conductive composites, but all these results are depending on the type of silane used for Silanization.

P071_0600_ FUTURE BIO-ARCTIC DESIGN – NON-TOXIC PLANT- AND TREEDERIVED SMART TEXTILES WITH PROTECTIVE PROPERTIES

Susan Kunnas — 2019-11-20

4A1_0247_ COMPOSTING TO COLORANTS: A NOVEL APPROACH FOR SUSTAINABILITY AND CIRCULARITY

Ajoy Sarkar — 2019-08-14

This project was an attempt to apply innovative ideas and methods to tackling textile waste by building on existing knowledge and approaches. Fabric waste generated at the design stage was biodegraded, and the compost was used as an addition to agriculture growth media to cultivate natural dye plants. The dye plants were then used to extract dyes as potential substitutes for synthetic dyes. The paradigm shift was to demonstrate the potential for transforming fabric waste from any point in the supply chain to create new materials, specifically natural colorants that can be used to reduce pollution at the manufacturing stage.

4A2_0506_ USING NIR TECHNOLOGY TO IDENTIFY VALUE IN WASTE TEXTILE STREAMS

Kirsti Cura — 2019-08-14

4A3_0151_ MICROFIBRE POLLUTION – WHAT’S THE STORY FOR WOOL?

Stewart R. Collie — 2019-08-14

Contamination of the environment with fibres and fibre fragments is a serious concern facing the textile industry. We studied the comparative marine biodegradation of three wool types and four synthetic fibres with which wool competes commercially, via a method based on a standard biodegradability test. We confirmed that wool readily biodegrades in sea water, consistent with earlier findings relating to soil biodegradation. Wool biodegradation appears to progress through phases relating to its composition and microstructure. We are now investigating the effect of standard chemical finishes used on wool fabrics, and the correlation between accelerated laboratory methods and ‘real world’ biodegradation.

4A4_0233_ TEXTILE REUSE AND RECYCLING IN GREECE, FACT OR FICTION?

Efthymios Gravas — 2019-08-14

The paper consists of a general review concerning the reuse and recycling of textile products from raw materials to final products throughout time. The review is categorized, creating a map indicating the procedures used and making comparisons with the current status in different countries. By general consensus all publications strongly support the view that textile reuse and recycling reduce environmental impact but they also stress the necessity to experiment with other allocation methods for incoming recycled materials. From the existing review arises one basic assumption, however, that textile garments are better reused rather than recycled. Finally, although Greece has an “infant” experience in the reuse and recycling of textile products, there is plenty of room for applications and further research as there seems to be growing interest both by governments and local authorities to involve themselves in such challenging pursuits. To what extent, such ambitious pursuits so far have “borne fruit”, remains to be seen!

4B1_0183_ DECREASING INTER-FIBER FRICTION WITH LUBRICANTS FOR EFFICIENT MECHANICAL RECYCLING OF TEXTILES

Katarina Lindström — 2019-08-14

To decrease the environmental burden of the textile industry and at the same time reduce textile waste, the fibers of discarded textiles can be re-used into new yarns and fabrics. The shortening of fibers during mechanical shredding direct the use of the recovered fibers to low value products. With the use of a lubricant pre-treatment on cotton and polyester fabrics, we decreased the friction during shredding. The reduction in friction was shown with a developed inter-fiber friction test. Further, the pre-treatment was shown to give longer recovered fibers and eliminate melted areas in polyester material.

4B2_0249_ SUSTAINABILITY DRIVEN TEXTILE MATERIAL AND PROCESS EVALUATION SUPPORTED BY A CUSTOMIZABLE SOFTWARE TOOL

Jirka I. Rajme-Mendez — 2019-08-14

Nowadays, sustainability has become a requirement for textile companies to remain long-term competitive. “Pandora” is a software tool that enables a systematic approach to quantify sustainability by a ranking system. Pandora can evaluate fibre material and textile technology within various scenarios or company profiles in order to recommend the most suitable substitution customized to the vision, demands, and prioritization of the user. Therefore, the software can support decision-making processes towards transparent and sustainable longterm planning of businesses. Pandora was successfully implemented in a case-based approach for the replacement of a cotton-polyester tent fabric for a Dutch company.

4B4_0717_ KINETIC STUDYING of REACTIVE DYE ADSORPTION by DIFFERENT ORGANOCLAYS

N. Kertmen — 2019-08-14

Adsorption is one of the most effective methods used to remove reactive dyes from wastewater and, different adsorbents such as activated carbons, biosorbents and clay minerals can be used for the adsorption.In this study, the adsorption of Reactive Red 141 dye on montmorillonite based commercial organoclay compounds and the organoclay modified with hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide was investigated and a high color removal was observed. The adsorption kinetics were modelled using pseudo first and second order kinetic models. The pseudo-second kinetic model was found the best fitted.

5A1_0483_ PROCESS DEVELOPMENT FOR UNI DIRECTIONAL TAPE STRUCTURE BASED ON RECYCLED CARBON FIBER AND THERMOPLASTIC FIBERS FOR FIBER REINFORCED PLASTICS

Muhammad Furqan Khursid — 2019-08-14

The aim of present study is to develop a new process chain for the manufacturing of uni-directional (UD) tape structure based on recycled carbon and thermoplastic fibers. For this purpose, a process chain consist of carding, drawing and tape development processes was designed. Initially, technical and kinematical parameters of carding and drawing machines were optimized for the gentle processing of recycled carbon fiber. Furthermore, auto leveling unit of the drawing machine was also modified for uniform production of drawn sliver with minimum fiber damage. Finally, uniform sliver were processed on a prototype process to develop UD tapes for fiber reinforced plastics.

5A2_0520_ CONSUMERS’ CLOTHING DISPOSAL BEHAVIOUR: WHERE DO WE STAND?

J. P. Bernardes — 2019-08-14

The purpose of this article is to provide an overview of current knowledge on consumers’ clothing disposal behaviour. This article is based on a literature review on consumers’ clothing disposal behaviour, with a review process that resulted of a list of 50 papers. Articles not directly linked with the subject or available for download were excluded, resulting in a final sample of 30 articles. This research presents a holistic and comprehensive view of literature related to consumers’ clothing disposal behaviour, and highlights the main gaps within the topic with some suggestions on how to deepen the knowledge on the topic.

5A3_0642_ ASSESMENT OF ECO-CRITERIA IN TERMS OF SUSTAINABILITY APPROACH IN TEXTILE SECTOR

Dilek Altıntas Akay — 2019-08-14

In this study, an integrated textile mill located in Turkey was investigated in terms of tests for product and environmental safety conducted to eco-criteria limits. 29 synthetic/cellulosic blended woven finished fabric tested acccording to the Oeko-tex test standards and 3 discharged treated wastewater samples were tested acccording to the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) test standards. To widen the assesment on wastewater test results and to investigate the current situation of the similar production mills in textile industry, the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE) database was examined and data has been compared with investigated mill’s test result.

5A4_0309_ UPCYCLING TEXTILE WASTE TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE INDUSTRY

Kumar Behera Bijoya — 2019-08-14

5B1_0351_ STUDY OF POLLUTANT PARTICLES STATUS OF COLORED TEXTILE WASTEWATER IN SEMI-BATCH OXIDATIVE REACTOR

Maedeh Vafaee — 2019-08-14

The textile industries are known as one of the important source containing hazardous materials. Recently, different techniques (physical, chemical…) have been used for the wastewater treatment. Among of them, photocatalytic oxidation as an advanced oxidation process is a useful treatment for removal of the organic pollutants. According to the recent studies, it would be necessary to the choice of a photoreactor with high efficiency for wastewater treatment. Finding of the optimum parameters and flow regime inside the reactor are necessary to study the process efficiency. In addition, the hydrodynamics of a reactor can be characterized from the residence time distribution.

5B2_0374_ TEXTILE MICROPLASTICS: A CRITICAL OVERVIEW

Paula Félix-de-Castro — 2019-08-14

This paper presents an overview of the protocol developed by LEITAT for identification and quantification of released microfibres (microfibres shedding) from textiles in washing processes. Sampling, washing, filtering and quantification methods are described. Research has been carried out on the processing steps of the textile chain value that might affect microfibres release from textiles. Based on this, new strategies based on spinning processes, mechanical and chemical solutions have been pointed out as technological solutions for microfibre release.

P073_0344_ MANAGEMENT OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION RETAIL BASED ON REUSE – A STRUGGLE WITH MULTIPLE LOGICS

Lars Hedegård — 2019-11-20

P075_0393_ Adsorptive treatment of hazardous methylene blue dye from textile wastewater using banana peel waste as a cellulosic adsorbent: Isotherm study

Maral Pishgar — 2019-11-20

In this paper, the use of banana peel as a cellulosic adsorbent has been investigated to remove the cationic dye (Basic Blue 159) from textile effluent.The banana peel particles were characterized by FESEM and FTIR. Batch adsorption experiments were carried out as a function of pH, contact time and the mass of adsorbent and mixing speed. Equilibrium adsorption isotherms and kinetics were investigated. The Langmuir, Freundlich,Tempkin were used. The results show that experimental data fitted very well to Langmuir model. Results indicate that banana peel could be used as an adsorbent to remove the cationic dyes from contaminated water courses.

P076_0456_ CLOSING THE LOOP: STEP ONE PRE-CONSUMER DENIM FABRIC WASTAGE RECYCLING PROCESS

İsmail Ivedi — 2019-11-20

The purpose of this study is to make the preliminary work to investigate the potential of pre-consumer textile waste and recycling/reusing possibilities. For this purpose, the waste points from fabric to the final product in denim garment production process were determined. Then the fabric wastes arose from these points were collected. The pre-consumer waste denim fabrics were then sent to yarn mill and deconstructed into scraps and shredded into raw cotton again. This cotton fiber is then blended with recycled and virgin polyester to ensure good tensile strength. This yarn used as the weft while virgin polyester used as the warp yarn in the weaving process. Produced fabric with indigo shade used as pocket fabric in denim cloths and compared with the conventional pocket fabric. The effect of fiber types on yarn or fabric characteristics were investigated in accordance with planning design and construction. There is no significant effect was observed in the resultant tenacity properties between the recycled yarn and conventional yarn. The results of this investigation show that the washing conditions have a significant effect on the resultant fabric tear strength and shrinkage properties in all samples. These results show the fabric include recycled materials can be used as the pocket fabric of denim cloths.

P077_0512_ STREAMLINED LIFE CYCLE ASSESSMENT

Thomas Gries — 2019-11-20

P079_0697_ THERMOMECHANICAL ANALYSIS OF COMPOSITE MATERIALS WITH PLASMA TREATMENT RECYCLED CARBON FIBERS

Miroslava Pechočiaková — 2019-11-20

In present work are analyzed the changes thermomechanical properties of epoxy composites filled with 2,5wt% recycled short carbon fibers. Main objective was to study the influence of plasma treatment of fibers to melting point and thermal stability of composites.

P080_0730_ Functionalization of PA6 to increase the interfacial shear strength to unsized recycled carbon fibres

Jonas Broening — 2019-11-20

P081_0732_ NOVEL PERSPECTIVES IN USE OF RECYCLED CARBON FIBRES – HEATING, SHIELDING AND MAINTENANCE

Christian Möbitz — 2019-11-20

The demand for carbon fibres is driven by the trends of electro mobility, energy efficiency (lightweight construction) and high-performance materials. The global demand for carbon fibres in 2017 was about 74,000 t/a. By 2022, the demand will increase by around 11 % annually to 120,000 t/a. Around 35 % of carbon fibres are processed in Europe. During carbon fibre processing (i.e. for reinforced plastics) around 40 % of carbon fibres are wasted. The unused potential by fibre wasting in component manufacturing in 2022 in Europe is hence approx. 336 million €/a (at a virgin c-fibre price of 20 €/kg).
A common approach to recycle carbon fibres to a new product is to produce staple fibre nonwovens. The strength of such nonwoven structures are descent but still worse than those of virgin carbon fibre surfaces such as wovens. In this paper, an overview about different approaches in given in which the electrical conductivity of the carbon fibres is used to create electrical functionalised materials in terms of heating, maintainence and electromagnetic shielding.

4A1_0198_ MEMBRANES FOR APPAREL WITH THE ADDITIONAL BARRIER FUNCTION FOR THE REDUCTION OF IRRADIATION HEAT LOSS

A. V. Lunchev — 2019-08-14

A membrane is a thin layer of polymer on shell fabric of apparel. Beside waterproofing a membrane can increase the thermal protection of apparel by stopping irradiative heat loss.
We have modified a polyurethane membrane in two ways: addition of inorganic components and coating with different polymers. The addition of heat absorptive additives reduced heat transmittance of membrane from 85% to 3%. The presence of heat reflecting compounds decreased transmittance of PU film to 25%. Coating with polypyrrole revealed the highest decrease in heat transmittance (down to 1-3%) among all polymers. Both approaches made augmentation in clothing insulation when they were used in apparel.

4A2_0349_ ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE TEXTILES UNDER CONSIDERATION OF PERCOLATION THRESHOLD AND POLYMER CRYSTALLINITY

Evelyn Lempa — 2019-08-14

For the production of smart textiles often electrically conductive coatings or prints are required. Using polymeric binders in combination with micro particles based on metal can achieve good results once a critical concentration – the percolation threshold – is exceeded. The shape and size of the filler particles as well as the crystallinity of the polymer have a major influence on conductivity. In addition to conductive properties of the coatings also other textile characters such as weight and flexibility have to be considered when choosing fillers as well as binders.

4A3_0203_ PREPARATION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF N-HEXADECANE/POLYCAPROLACTONE PHASE-CHANGE MICROCAPSULES VIA SINGLE-NOZZLE ELECTROSPRAYING

Shengchang Zhang — 2019-08-14

In this study, single-nozzle electrospraying was used to prepare microencapsulated phase change materials. The effects of core/shell (n-hexadecane/polycaprolactone) mass ratios on the structure, morphology and thermal properties, were analyzed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). A ratio about 50/50 was found as the most suitable to fabricate microcapsule with a narrow microcapsule sizes distribution, a complete core-shell structure and a smooth surface. Furthermore, the encapsulation efficiency in n-hexadecane reaches maximum at this ratio value. Finally, not only interesting latent heat can be obtained from these microcapsules, but also improved thermal stability of n-hexadecane.

4A4_0230_ ELECTROMAGNETIC SHIELDING ACHIEVED BY PLASMA COATED FABRICS

Ion Razvan Radulescu — 2019-08-14

Electromagnetic shielding (EM) achieved by flexible materials has gained an increased significance in today’s radiation polluted environment. In order to obtain electromagnetic shielding fabrics, two main technologies are available: insertion of conductive fibers/yarns and coating with conductive films. This paper focuses on manufacturing and investigation of EM shielding fabrics achieved by combining both technologies: fabrics with inserted conductive yarns of stainless steel and silver were coated with a thin copper film obtained by magnetron sputtering. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and atomic absorption spectroscopy measurements evidenced the copper content while electromagnetic shielding tests by means of Transversal Electromagnetic (TEM) cell evidenced good shielding effectiveness of 20-35 dB within 0.1-1000 MHz frequency range.

P023_0261_ Analysis of the thermal comfort properties and FIR infrared emission characteristics of ceramic nanofillers imbedded fabrics

Ashik Md Faisal — 2019-09-04

Far-infrared (FIR) ray emitting textiles are claimed to be functional textiles that improve the health as well as well-being. FIR ray emitting fabrics are derived from traditional fibers by incorporation of ceramic nanofillers with appropriate electromagnetic absorption and emission properties. This study examined the far-infrared emission characteristics and thermal comfort properties of ceramic-imbedded cotton knitted fabrics. For this purpose, a combination of Aluminum Oxide, Silicon Dioxide and, Titanium Dioxide were dissolved in water-based polyurethane binder by sonication technique and then applied to the cotton fabric samples by padding. Reflection and transmission of the samples were measured with an integrating sphere by Fourier-transform infrared spectrometer. The result shows a significant change in terms of emissivity between the treated and the untreated samples. Thermal properties of fabric samples were investigated by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The results showed that the thermophysical properties of the fabrics are strongly dependent on the nature of nanofillers present on the coating. In addition, properties like tensile strength, moisture absorbency, and antimicrobial properties were also measured to evaluate the feasibility of the ceramic nanofiller coated fabric towards thermal comfort.

P024_0663_ UV protective fabrics by application of ball milled Neem tree leaves

Asif Javed — 2019-09-04

As the UV radiation is harmful to human skin, the aim of this research was to develop UV protective fabrics. The neem tree (Azadirachta indica) has many compounds in its every part. These compounds possess UV protective properties. Neem tree (Azadirachta indica) leaves were ball milled to obtain fine powder. Particle size of powder was analyzed by Laser Scattering Particle Size Distribution Analyzer. The obtained powder was applied to 100% cotton fabric. The surface morphology of fabric was observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Subsequently fabric was examined against ultraviolet radiation. Treated fabric showed excellent UV blocking. Furthermore the bending rigidity of the fabric was examined. After coating bending rigidity of fabric was increased. Lastly the effect of washing was examined on UV protection. The fabric showed moderate wash durability.

5A1_0478_ DEVELOPMENT OF TECHNICAL MANNEQUIN BASED ON ANTHROPOMETRIC STUDY OF PORTUGUESE CHILDREN

G.M.F. Bezerra — 2019-08-30

During the process of design of children's clothing, it is important to consider the activities of each age group, dressing and undressing, clothing functionality and usability, as well as their body shape, anthropometric characteristics and ergonomic needs. It was from the user-focused design that this work was developed. The lack of research on children's clothing, sizing and main biotypes, allowed the creation and construction of an industrial technical mannequin, as a result of an anthropometric study, representing the children of one of the main identified groups, during a Clusters Analysis of Portuguese children aged between four and nine years.

5A2_0402_ KINEMATIC MODELING OF A MOTORCYCLE RIDER FOR DESIGN OF FUNCTIONAL CLOTHING

Kanika Jolly — 2019-08-30

5A3_0570_ KNITTED FABRIC TEXTILE CLASSIFICATION BASED ON GLOBAL FEATURE

Pengpeng Yao — 2019-08-30

In this paper, we reviewed and examined the classification methods for the knitted fabrics and acquired a fabricdataset to verify the results. We then proposed the global feature method to classify 290 knitted fabrics with 58 different textures and 5 different colors. Using the global feature method, the classification accuracy of knitted fabrics can be improved significantly. The result shows that our proposed method is better than the stateof-the-art method.

5A4_0459_ RECONSTRUCTION OF HISTORICAL TEXTILE FABRICS AND DRESSES IN VIRTUAL REALITY

Victor Kuzmichev — 2019-08-30

Main aim is to create a method of virtual reconstruction of historical clothes. We applied 2D CAD, Clo3D, and CG tools to find the relationship between outline shape of skirt, properties and construction of garments and textile materials. We used contemporary fabrics which are similar to historical prototypes by changing physical and mechanical properties. New method includes 3D -to-2D flattening; finding the air gaps in "avatar - skirt" system; choosing textile materials and number of underskirt garments; generating of digital replica. The adequacy of historical prototypes to its virtual replica is full due to CAD, new developed modules, and data base.

5B1_0357_ A PROTOTYPE VIRTUAL DRAPING SYSTEM

Shigeru Inui — 2019-08-30

5B2_0411_ DESCRIBING THE QUALITY OF FIT ON A 3D VIRTUAL MANNEQUIN USING AN ALGORITHM TO SIMULATE REAL FABRIC DRAPING BASE ON VARIOUS MATERIAL PROPERTIES

Monika Balach — 2019-08-30

The objective of research is to accurately simulate the virtual cloth draping by comparing real fabric draping on a physical mannequin with the virtual draping on a virtual mannequin. This research will aid the development of an algorithm, which will accurately describe draping for various fabric types by taking into account the mechanical properties of the fabric. Material behaviour depends on many factors including the fibre, yarn, manufacturing process, fabric weight, textile finish etc. For this study, five different fabric types with very different mechanical properties were selected and evaluated for all of the above fabric characteristics. Bending, shear and roughness properties were calculated using the KES system (Kawabata). This study will consider current research using the KES system to understand and simulate fabric folding on the virtual body. Testing will help to determine, which material properties have the largest impact on the fit of the garment. By developing an algorithm, which factors of the body type, material type and clothing function, it will be possible to determine how a specific type of clothing made from a particular type of material will fit on a specific body shape and size. A fit indicator will display areas of stress on the garment such as shoulders, chest, waist and hips. Using these data, CAD/CAM software can be used to develop garments that fit with a very high degree of accuracy. Therefore, research aims at providing an innovative solution for garment fitting, which will aid in the manufacture of clothing. Presented research will help the clothing industry by cutting the cost of the clothing manufacturing process and also reduce the cost spent on fitting. The manufacturing process can be made more efficient by virtual fitting of the garment, before the real clothing sample is made. Fitting software could be integrated into clothing retailer websites allowing customers to enter their biometric data and determine how the particular garment and material type would fit to their body.

5B3_0629_ CO-CREATION: A PATH-BREAKING INITIATIVE FOR FASHION DESIGN COMMUNITY

Sandeep Kidile — 2019-08-30

P034_0248_ Designing clothes from materials with improved signalling and decorative properties

Irina A. Petrosova — 2019-09-04

In this thesis we are considering the process of designing clothes with light-transmitting elements and optical fiber. We also suggest some technological solutions for optical fiber usage as core threads and fabric wheft when developing materials with adjustable brightness and color. We have also designed some new constructive and decorative elements in clothes providing the possibility to supply controllable light decorative and identification signals.

P035_0688_ Fashion design as a discipline in onsite and online learning environments.

Graça Guedes — 2019-09-04

5A1_0712_ SMART EDUCATION FOR SMART TEXTILES

Mirela Blaga — 2019-08-30

The aim of this paper is to present the main objectives and achievements of the Skills4Smartex project, according to its declared goals. The Erasmus+ project "Smart textiles for STEM training" is funded with support from the European Commission and it is a Strategic partnership - KA2 / Vocational Education and Training (VET), in the field of transfer of innovation from research providers towards textile enterprises & VET schools. The students within technical education acquire basic disciplines, such as mathematics, physics, technical drawing, chemistry, biology, mechanics, but the horizon of the end applications and usefulness of such basic disciplines is often not touchable. In correlation with these facts, the Skills4Smartex project is centred on improving knowledge, skills and employability of VET students in the STEM related fields, by providing the adequate training instruments to understand multidisciplinary working.

5A2_0297_ Enabling 21st Century Skills for Textile Education by Integrating Design Thinking in Elementary Schools

Sabine Högsdal — 2019-08-30

Creativity, problem-solving skills and the ability for collaborative work are considered key competences for facing the challenges of the 21st century. Children are born with an inherent creativity that decreases throughout their school careers. A research team of designers and educators investigates whether the implementation of Design Thinking (DT) in textile education in German elementary schools is a suitable method to preserve children’s creativity. Initial surveys with teachers and pilot studies in elementary schools showed high motivation and open-mindedness towards DT in classroom. The challenge will be to develop suitable teaching modules for elementary schools of the federal state Baden-Württemberg.

5A3_0279_ INTERNSHIPS AS A PROJECT BASED LEARNING FOR INTERNATIONAL STUDENTS AT FT TUL

Pavla Těšinová — 2019-08-30

Internships and trainings are widely used as project-based learning activity for students on mobility. Students obtain practical operation of instruments, skill to run experiment, evaluation of data as a basic skills and knowledge. Preferably it is also acquired planning of project, time management, source search and also working in team. Internationalization is a key to meet different cultures, research styles, characters and experiences. It is no doubt that it improves students involved in kind of internationalization at home too.

P057_0068_ TEXTILE STRATEGY FOR INNOVATIVE HIGHER EDUCATION: LITHUANIAN EXPERIENCE

Rimvydas Milašius — 2019-11-19

P058_0733_ E-LEARNING INSTRUMENTS TO SUPPORT TEXTILE FIELDS

Ion Razvan Radulescu — 2019-11-19